LT80 rear clutch removal.
#31
Oh yea, there is a sleve that needs to come off to take the sliding face off the fixxed face post.
Once you strip the nut and get the clutch pack off.<EG>..you grab that thin sleeve and twist it off. No threads but it's held in place by 2 o-rings. That'll expose the slides and you pull the 3 pins out.
Check the bearings in the fixxed face post.
Once you strip the nut and get the clutch pack off.<EG>..you grab that thin sleeve and twist it off. No threads but it's held in place by 2 o-rings. That'll expose the slides and you pull the 3 pins out.
Check the bearings in the fixxed face post.
#33
#34
Question for LT80:
I have told a few people my plans for shaving the head. Most of them seem to question taking that much off and many also try to tell me I will have to run high octane race gas if I do it. I think I have ready that I would need nothing more that premium gas (which I already run). Is that correct? I am suppose to have the head back tonight.
I have told a few people my plans for shaving the head. Most of them seem to question taking that much off and many also try to tell me I will have to run high octane race gas if I do it. I think I have ready that I would need nothing more that premium gas (which I already run). Is that correct? I am suppose to have the head back tonight.
#38
#40
I got everything done yesterday. I am disapointed to say it did not make much of a difference.The work done yesterday was put on Shaved head (.030") with new head gasket, torqued down to 115 inch/lbs. New front clutch moveable face, plate and 4 new rollers. Cut the shoes down on the rear clutch to 180 grams. My guess is that the rear clutch is engaging immediately and not allowed to spin up before engaging. Any idea what might cause this? Do I need new shoe springs? Or maybe that big spring?