Oh yea, there is a sleve that needs to come off to take the sliding face off the fixxed face post.
Once you strip the nut and get the clutch pack off.<EG>..you grab that thin sleeve and twist it off. No threads but it's held in place by 2 o-rings. That'll expose the slides and you pull the 3 pins out.
Check the bearings in the fixxed face post.

 

Thanks Jack. I will give it a try. I'm not sure if my fixed face is savagable. Are the aluminum?

 

Got the head off and sent out to be shaved. I did not have time to do anything else. It's alomost deer season here so there were guns to sight in last night!

 

Question for LT80:

I have told a few people my plans for shaving the head. Most of them seem to question taking that much off and many also try to tell me I will have to run high octane race gas if I do it. I think I have ready that I would need nothing more that premium gas (which I already run). Is that correct? I am suppose to have the head back tonight.

 

Premium gas is more than enough octane.
Shaving .030 should bump the comp up to approx 140 or so.

 

Any suggestions for getting all that carbon off the top of the piston?

 

I use a wire brush.

 

Hey Jack, Got everything apart and things are looking good. I will pick up the head tomorrow from my buddies brothers shop. What is the torq spec on the head? Thanks...

 

115 inch pounds.

 

I got everything done yesterday. I am disapointed to say it did not make much of a difference.The work done yesterday was put on Shaved head (.030") with new head gasket, torqued down to 115 inch/lbs. New front clutch moveable face, plate and 4 new rollers. Cut the shoes down on the rear clutch to 180 grams. My guess is that the rear clutch is engaging immediately and not allowed to spin up before engaging. Any idea what might cause this? Do I need new shoe springs? Or maybe that big spring?