1996 LT80.....the cover took over an hour to get off. I don't think the clutches have ever been maintained. The front clutch came off ok, but I found out I at the least need new rollers and possibly the whole this due to wear on the variator. I can not get the nut on the rear clutch to come loose. I am using a air ratchet. Anyone have any tricks for holding it in order to break that nut free?

 

Well, I got the clutch off. It took a while with the impact driver but it finally came off. The rear clutch shoes look really thin. Can anyone tell me if there is suppose to be very much material back there for the shoe. It kind of reminds me of a brake shoe, but the actual shoe material on my clutch is only about maybe 1/8" thick if even that. I was going to drill the shoes to make them lighter, but I don't want to spend the time doing it if I am going to need new ones.

 

1/8 is ok. Prolly last a while.
Don't drill first,,cut the end off. 3/8" from the pad then drill to 180 grams.

If there are gouges in the variator, it's bad. prolly need the roller plate too.

 

Looking for just a little clarification Jack. Are you saying cut the shoes 3/8" from the end of the pad or from the end of the shoe?

Can you direct me to a link or some kind of write on how these clutches work? What does the front clutch do and what does the back clutch do and how do they interact with each other? My boy is running the quad hard and I think I need to get him a lillte more top end until I can afford to get him something bigger. Hopefully I can get him into a lt230 in the spring. I removed 2 rollers from the front, but did not lighten the rear shoes due to having questions. Take off was very slightly better after removing the rollers. The top end might have suffered a little, does that sound right?

I think what I need to do is replace the bad rollers(4 rollers) and the bad variator and plate, lighten the shoes, and then after all that is done maybe regear with new sprockets. Does that sound like the right start if I am keeping the engine stock? I have replaced the ORIGINAL 1996 filter in it with a Uni and thought maybe I would rejet from stock (92.5?) to 90 to cut down on some of the smoking. Opinions on this direction?

How about some suggestions on good websites to get these parts from. I usually use Bikebandit.com, but their price on the sprockets seems a little high to me and I know I have seen them for less somewhere else.

 

Your on the right track Moe.
I'll try to explain it all.
Cutting the shoes:: 3/8" from the pad. We're looking at a target weight of 180 (+/- a gram or 2) grams each shoe. That'll get you real close. Drill the back of the shoe to fine tune the weight. Each shoe needs to weigh the same.

How they work: front : As the motor revs up, the centrifical force pushed the rollers out. This makes the variator move thus pushing the belt out. The more throttle the farther the rollers push and the variator closes.
Rear: as the variator pushes on the belt, the rear clutch spins. At a certain rpm (stall speed) the centrifical force throws the clutch shoes out.
As the throttle is increased the front and back work together raising/lowering the ratios.
As the machine slows, the rear clutch torque spring pushes the rear clutch back together and the front apart.
Yes, you removed 2 rollers and slightly decreased top end.
I'd get 428 gearing (1987/88 LT80's). Sock is 12/26. I recommend getting a 12/13/14 front sprockets. Steel sprockets. I run #40 chain on the 428 sprockets. It's cheaper and 1/2 links are available.
The removal of the 2 rollers may be exactly what you need to run the 14 front.

Yes, I'd go to the 90 main jet.

To compliment the gearing change, the head should be shaved .030
This raise in compression will really help with getting a taller gear to holeshot.

Without porting and such a stock motor will only push just so much gearing but I think this may get you thru.

Just curious..How old/tall is your rider?

 

Man that was a fast response!

My son is about 5' tall and just a guess but maybe 80-90 pounds.

Everything you described so far is well within my abilities EXCEPT maybe shaving the head. Can you tell me more about that? I expect that I will take off the head and take it to a machinist unless you have some super trick for that (can't see how, but can't hurt to ask). How hard is it to get the head off a bike that is 13 years old and never been cracked open? Do I have to pull the motor?

Also still curious about the best place to get parts. So far I figure the new clutch parts and rear gearing is going to cost me about a $100. Would be nice if I could save a little on that since I will most likely sell this quad in 6-8 months.

 

"never been cracked open" <--- WOW!!
Just goes to show you how durable they can be.
I'd really like you to do a compression test before any disassembly.
Removal of the head is easy.
Removing the rear fenders will help.Remove the spark plug.Remove the bolts/nut that holds the top motor plastic. Remove the bolt that holds the CDI (spark plug wire) and get that out of the way. The plastic will then pull out the right side (with a lil wiggling).
4 nuts and the head is off.
Yes a machine shop or send it to me.
Please do the comp test first.
Motorsports Super Center | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts

Best prices there.

 

Thanks for laying it all out for me like that Jack, that's what I was after. Just curious, why the compression test first? My only guess is to know if there are any other issues before starting and maybe to guage the increase in compression. Whats the increase by shaving 30 thousanths? I assume when you do that a new head gasket is in order too?

When you said send the head to you what did you have in mind? Just shaving .030 off or something moore?

 

Comp: Yes, to make sure nothing else is wrong. It's been around the yard a few times. I'd hate to get it all fixxed up and then have the piston go out of it.
You can get a new head gasket. You can also use the old one if you have to.

".030 off or something moore?"
LOL..Just shaving it. It'll raise the comp 15-20 pounds.

 

Jack please pm me a price for that work. Also I am curious, I have seen heads for these on ebay for like $30, any chance you have one already shaved that you can sell me? Just looking to save down time and it would be nice just to spend a little more and just have it shipped to me ready to go. Once I find out about this head work I think I am going to try and gather all the parts and do all of the work at one time.

One last question, what the torque suppose to be on the head nuts?