no problem. i thought it would be good info to post up. now just need to get this fuel issue fixed.

 

Hi there

I got same problem - no spark

I have tried this:
And voltages are black/red(ignition power) almoust 80V, blue/white(trigger) ~0.55V. Bluewhite-ground gives 120 ohms. From cdi to coil goes black/yellow but theres no voltage. Is cdi broken?

Right is original and left i got from my friend. Could that work on this case? As you can see, it's little bit different.

 

Your measurements indicate that you have good power to the CDI, you have a trigger signal. The three remaining items are:

1) CDI Kill Switch Pin: Measure the resistance of this line to frame ground with all the kill switches set to the run position. The ignition switch (which is one of the kill switches) must be on. Use a high resistance scale like 20,000 ohms full scale (20,000 ohms = 20K ohms). You should read infinite resistance (open). If it reads zero ohms you've zeroed in on the problem.

Another way to test for kill switch problems is to disconnect the kill switch wire at the CDI, plug the CDI back in see if it starts. The problem with this method is that if it does start up you now have no good way to shut it off other than pluging the wire back in while the engine is running. There is high voltage on the CDI kill pin when the engine is running, so when killing the engine be sure to shut of the ignition switch first, then carefully reattach that wire to the kill switch with *insulated* pliers.

2) CDI Ground Pin: Measure the resistance of the ground pin in the harness to frame ground. Use the lowest scale you have on the meter (like 20 ohms full scale). It should be zero ohms.

3) Ignition Coil Primary Winding Resistance: Measure the resistance of the ignition coil pin of the CDI connector to frame ground. Use the lowest scale again (like 20 ohms). It should read a very low value like 0.3 ohms, but it should not read zero ohms.

Those CDI's are vastly different sizes. Strange. To the best of my knowledge all 5 pin CDI's that use that connector are cross compatible. In my experience so far they have all been AC powered, use the same pinout, and work the same.

 

I measured all wires. Everything was right, voltages and ohms. So i checked all wires and connectors again. I noticed that spark comes sometimes - new ground wires for coil and cdi. Also i changed spark plug and spark plug cover. Now it's working. Thank you about those measuring tips. They were very helpful.

 

You're welcome for the help, but it looks like you solved this on your own .

I just rechecked the two CDI pics you posted and noticed something I didn't see last time: The connector pins aren't the same...

Strange, I've never seen that before...

 

Hello there, I have read through this thread a bit because I too am having issues with my Baja motor sports 150 ATV. gy6 150

First off, I bought it used, it had been sitting for 2 years, but it would spark with carb cleaner.

Got it home and put a new carb on it. It fired up fine and ran except it had a peculiar issue (electrical). If I jiggled the key switch back and forth It would power up and run. Until one day it was ok and then would no longer start(turn over, just dead).

I found that the saftey switch on the brake lever was bad.
So I replace that switch. This allowed the machine to power up and crank over, but NO SPARK. I put a new coil on it and CDI, but that did not sovle the problem. Now after reading this I have checked the Pins at the cdi on AC tester and I DO NOT have the 80volts from the black and red wire. The ground resist. with the run switch in the OFF position is at 0.01 or somthing like that and with the switch set to ON the reading is 56.4ish. So that is where I am at in my trouble shooting. Any help would be great. The link below will take you to the manual which has the wiring diagram. It is toward the back of the manual. Thanks in advance. JOhn

Update the CDI has 4 wires, the black and red one is showing 11.9v dc (battery)

http://bajamotorsportsonline.com/sys...refix_LLC_.pdf

 

If you truly are measuring the resistance of the ground wire of the CDI and it is changing from 0 to 56 ohms then that is a problem. You should have 0 ohms always. What color is the wire you're measuring? Are you sure it is the ground wire?

Yes, the wiring diagram definately shows a DC powered 4 pin CDI. There is no AC ignition power winding in your stator so you won't get 80 volts anywhere.

Did you notice in the diagram that your kill switch (I presume on the handlebar) works by shorting the Timing Trigger signal from the stator (the little pickup coil outside the flywheel) to ground? Measure the Timing trigger wire resistance and make sure it is not grounded with the kill switch set to the "run" position. If it is ground you will not get spark.

 

Hi Lynn The wire on the cdi box that I am measuring is Green. Im guessing that is the ground. So it doesnt matter if the switch is set to the run or off position, I should be reading no resist. I will double check that on my lunch hour and report back.

Please excuse my ignorance of electrical systems and wiring diagrams. Mechanical Im good. Electrical, Im a dunce, but I can test wires and report the readings LOL.

Yes I have a kill on the handle bars. The starting senario is as follows.
Key on, kill switch on, hold break and push the start button.

Once i found the brake saftey switch was bad and replaced it, the system powered up to crank over the engine.

Side note, after I fixed the switch, I pulled the plug and grounded it to the head and cranked it looking for spark, Is sparked about 3 time and now there is nothing. It has a new plug in it. New coil. etc. I doubt that the coil was the problem anyhow.

Ill check what I can and get back to you. Thanks for your help Lynn.
John

 

OK here is what I checked out with my multi meter.
black wire on the meter to the ground on the battery. The red lead attacthed to the lead that comes from the flywheel sensor pickup (blue and yellow wire)


With the run switch ON it reads 159.2 ohms
with the run switch OFF it reads 69.7 ohms

I have pics but am not sure how to add them to this post.

Next I checked the ground at the CDI box. One lead from the meter on the battery and one lead in the green wire at the cdi box. This read 66.6 ohms.

And the black and red wire from the cdi is reading 11.7volts DC, (nromal)

Hope my checking makes sense. I have no idea where to go from here. Am I chasing a bad ground? What it the best way to improve the grounding? Thanks again John

 

Your readings are very strange. One thing for sure - your ground wire on the CDI should be ground, not 50-60 ohms.

So first thing is to ground the CDI ground wire with a jumper plug. I'd use a alligator jumper clip from a clean frame ground to the CDI pin. If neccesary use a sewing pin to probe into the wire through the insulation at the CDI wiring harness. Then make sure you always have zero ohms from the CDI ground th engine ground. Repeat the timing trigger pin tests (ohms to ground) with the kill switch in "run" position and the "kill" position. Do you measure any changes?