LT80 crank seal help. Movable drive removal??
#1
#3
I am at my wits end with this thing. Here is where I am.
Complete top end. New base gasket, piston, rings, cylinder, head gasket etc. 120lbs compression. Took a few cranks to start but would and idles like new. Revs greats, will pull like new for first 2-3 mins then it falls on its face past 1/4 throttle while under load. Pulled carb, boiled and cleaned, no change. Noticed fuel on stator side. Replaced crank seal. Tried to replace clutch side crank seal but couldn't get fly wheel off. So I put major pieces back on and tried it. Fired very quickly. Let warm up and revved like a new one. As soon as I put under load it bogged like before. Here is the kicker, let it idle for a few and put my hand near exhaust outlet and noticed it didn't feel very strong, but when I had it off I blew thru it and it didn't feel restricted. So for kicks I placed a rag over the oulet to see what it would do. It reved like a new one! Then eventually bogged like before.
What am I missing here??? Please help!
Complete top end. New base gasket, piston, rings, cylinder, head gasket etc. 120lbs compression. Took a few cranks to start but would and idles like new. Revs greats, will pull like new for first 2-3 mins then it falls on its face past 1/4 throttle while under load. Pulled carb, boiled and cleaned, no change. Noticed fuel on stator side. Replaced crank seal. Tried to replace clutch side crank seal but couldn't get fly wheel off. So I put major pieces back on and tried it. Fired very quickly. Let warm up and revved like a new one. As soon as I put under load it bogged like before. Here is the kicker, let it idle for a few and put my hand near exhaust outlet and noticed it didn't feel very strong, but when I had it off I blew thru it and it didn't feel restricted. So for kicks I placed a rag over the oulet to see what it would do. It reved like a new one! Then eventually bogged like before.
What am I missing here??? Please help!
#4
So what about the front clutch? I'm reading that you didn't take it off but sorta stuck it back together. If so, unless it came apart and was installed properly the rollers are prolly flipped/the grease got hard and caused damage/keyway slipped/etc. This would explain a bog.
IMO, unless we know the front clutch is correct, the rest is a guess.
Altho it revs great, you could also heat the pipe up and clean it out to make sure on that's OK.
IMO, unless we know the front clutch is correct, the rest is a guess.
Altho it revs great, you could also heat the pipe up and clean it out to make sure on that's OK.
#5
LT80,
I was trying to replace both crank seals. Magneto side was no issue. However, the clutch side, I couldn't get flywheel off. So I figured I would put the clutch back on and try it since Magneto side was the only side that had fuel in the cover. I pulled the front clutch off completely, cleaned, removed 2 rollers, put grease in the cups that rollers went it and replaced. I just let off the cover and fired it up.
The bog is like it runs out of fuel, not a binding. Hope that explains it better.
I was trying to replace both crank seals. Magneto side was no issue. However, the clutch side, I couldn't get flywheel off. So I figured I would put the clutch back on and try it since Magneto side was the only side that had fuel in the cover. I pulled the front clutch off completely, cleaned, removed 2 rollers, put grease in the cups that rollers went it and replaced. I just let off the cover and fired it up.
The bog is like it runs out of fuel, not a binding. Hope that explains it better.
#7
LT80,
Thanks for the reply's!
Triple checked the arrow on piston is toward exhaust.
I pulled the reed cage out and visually inspected and they looked good.
When I had the pipe off for the topend rebuild, I blew threw it and had no restrictions that I could think of.
I almost seems it is something to do with temperature.... If I start it up and take off WOT it will scream for about 2 mins then it acts like it runs out of gas. But it I reduce throttle to 1/4 or less I can ride it all day... If I turn it off and fire it back up 2-3 mins later, it does the same thing.
Thanks for the reply's!
Triple checked the arrow on piston is toward exhaust.
I pulled the reed cage out and visually inspected and they looked good.
When I had the pipe off for the topend rebuild, I blew threw it and had no restrictions that I could think of.
I almost seems it is something to do with temperature.... If I start it up and take off WOT it will scream for about 2 mins then it acts like it runs out of gas. But it I reduce throttle to 1/4 or less I can ride it all day... If I turn it off and fire it back up 2-3 mins later, it does the same thing.
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#8
#9
1. Bought it for $100. It would crank but not start. Did Compression Test, it had only 30lbs.
2. I used the Ebay cylinder and piston. I did use OEM Suzuki base and head gaskets.
3. I used my small portable air compressor to blew throw it. Seemed to flow good to me.
4. Stator had very minimal surface rust. I cleaned it up with a green scrub pad.
5. Ground. Cleaned terminal and mount area with sandpaper.
If pipe was partially plugged would it let it Rev very high and then occasionally choke it down??
Thanks!
2. I used the Ebay cylinder and piston. I did use OEM Suzuki base and head gaskets.
3. I used my small portable air compressor to blew throw it. Seemed to flow good to me.
4. Stator had very minimal surface rust. I cleaned it up with a green scrub pad.
5. Ground. Cleaned terminal and mount area with sandpaper.
If pipe was partially plugged would it let it Rev very high and then occasionally choke it down??
Thanks!
#10