So how much did you take off the sliding face part?
Finally someone else that knows worn belts are best!
Let me know how much wear those rollers give. I suspect it'll wear the tracts some. I remove the steel part of the roller from the plastic and drill them to adjust weight. For a stock machine, non of that is needed tho.

 

I took .016" off moving sheave, but I also had to machine the pin tracts to get the belt height were I wanted it, the problem I have now is if he blows a belt my setup won't work the same, have u ever experimented with belts from different applications?

 

As for the magnesium rollers, they don't seem to wear anything too much, I still apply some grease on them, was told to try them from a former scooter racer who seems to know his stuff. I guess time will tell!!!

 

Good, You take too much off and they tend to come apart. lol
Seeins I've not seen belts come apart but maybe once or twice in 20 years, I wouldn't worry a bit about the belt. I see there are other belts. I'll stick with a Suzuki belt.

 

I let Jack handle my motor/clutch work...seems to gitty-up & go plenty well! I actually got him a new "high performance" belt, but forgot to install...from what I'm hearing I shouldn't bother...right?


I will say I'm a bit curious as to why you think a worn belt is better? My 20ys of snowmobiling says the complete opposite...on a sled a new, properly broken in, belt grabs much harder...

 

My opinion on the belt: I modify to get the belt as far down in the front as possible for holeshot. Same reasoning on the rear except it's for top end.

 

As for snowmobiles your dealing with much higher horsepower and depending on what your trying to achieve a new belt may be best, as for a production cvt atv that is around 6hp u can be certain that the drive ratio of your clutches is going to be a critical part in your holeshot/ topend speed, therefore if your belt is not sitting as low as possible in the variator your technically starting in a higher gear, if you were having trouble keeping the wheels from "breaking loose" at take off maybe a new slightly wider belt may be beneficial. FYI on a 180hp snowmobile setup for ice drags sometimes we shim the converter open slightly to allow for a softer launch pretty much the opposite of what u want to do on an lt80. But heck what do I know just a dumb farmer from Ontario!!!!🚜🚜🚜

 

Jack, have u ever experimented with machining new pin tracts in the moving sheave??? I already tried but not really noticeable change, next time was going to try a multi angle try and slow the shift until motor is in full power. Maybe just wasting my time.

 

Yes I have. And I do for my national motor kit. I've tried a few different things with the tracts. Settled in on just lengthening the slots for more travel.
Waste off time? Maybe on a stock motor. Maybe not.

 

FYI my motor is not quite stock, although it may not have "MOORE POWER" it's had Has LOTSAPOWER Like my 7 year old son being able to pull a holeshot on a novice 85 rider, for awhile anyways!!!Lol. Just for Kicks what kind of a cr are your national motors at??? And how tight is too tight for the squish???? The setup I'm using at the moment runs on the tight side in my opinion at .028 but the squish band has been modified heavily!!! From what I understand u run these engines at very high rpm, but with my porting I seems to be getting best usable power at 9500rpm. Nice to be able to chat with someone who has likely tried everything there is to do on one of these quads!👊