This might be long winded but I tried to include everything I tested after a bunch of reading.

Quad ran just fine until it was shut off the last time. Since then it won't start. Figured it was no spark since pulling the spark plug and grounding to the frame or engine produced no spark. Tested spark plug on another quad and it sparks just fine. Could probably be replaced anyway but doesn't appear to the cause of the problem on the Eton. The starter spins over just fine if all the switches are set to where they should be. I can also try to pull start it but its a bit difficult to test when doing that so almost all testing has been done using the electric starter. Just pull starting it and grounding the spark plug to the frame produces no spark.

Battery is at 12+ volts. Fuse is good and has 12+ volts on both sides and has continuity.

Ignition switch
Red 12+ volts
Ground is .2 ohms measured to a ground screw on the frame. Analog meter (if I zeroed it correctly) drops to 0
Black white some voltage (0.x - 1 volt) when cranking
White 12+ volts when key is turned on

Tether switch is wired in and looks to work. Get the same results when I remove it and jump the wires. No crank when the tether cap is removed or the wires aren’t jumped. Cranks when cap is in place or wires are jumped.

Kill switch on handle bars appears to be good. You can crank when its on and can’t when its off. Starter button cranks engine when everything is set to on like it should be.

Remote kill is in place although there is no remote for it. I’ve removed it and jumped the wires with the same results.

4 wire CDI. Red/black, white/black, white/blue and black.
Red/black 12+ volts when ignition switch is on
White/black not sure what should be happening here but I think it gets some DC voltage when cranking
White/blue no ac volts when cranking. Meter only has 200 or 600 but figured I would see something when set to 200. Analog meter doesn’t budge either.
Black .3 ohms measured to ground screw on the frame. Analog meter (if I zeroed it correctly) drops to 0

Ignition coil is .5 ohms across the primary and 3.17 (at 20k on the meter) on the secondary. Analog shows closer to .1 on the primary and 3 (at RX 1K) on the secondary.

Tried these stator tests but didn’t get anywhere near these numbers (if anything at all) and my wiring is a different color so wasn’t sure if it was applicable. Found the test on another ATV site, I can link it if needed.

The stator tests as follows:
1. YOU MUST USE A DIGITAL OHM METER!!!
2. On the stator the ohm reading between the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) should be about 1284 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 689 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
3. The red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) to ground should be about 447 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 112.7 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
4. The Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) to ground should be about 837 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 576 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
5. From the plastic connector with the three wires, confirm that the black lead has 0 resistance between the lead and the frame of the atv. That is the ground lead. Any noted resistance in the ground system means the ground is BAD. We recommend always adding a wire between the engine and the frame for a better ground.

NOTE That the total ohms for #3 and #4 are the same as the ohms in #2. That is because we but the resistance of the two coils in series and added the ohms.

I have also checked for AC voltage while cranking at the blue/yellow wire coming off the pickup coil and have nothing. The air gap could be adjusted down. Its a very loose .026” but I need a right angle screw driver or to rig up one to adjust it.

I found this and started testing but stopped after the first test since my wiring doesn't match. Viper_Series_Loss_Of_Spark.pdf

Wiring digram that matches this quad and what I've been using.


I assume this points to the stator? Any further tests I should do or any other suggestions?

 

unplug the white/black wire from the CDI unit. test for spark. that'll bypass your kill switches. (should be number 15 on your wire diagram)

 

I assuming leaving the CDI plugged in and touching the frame/ground to test for spark while cranking? No spark when trying that.

Although would that bypass the kill switches on the 4 pin CDI? 15 runs to the remote kill box. I tried it with the box in place and then with the box removed and 12 & 15 jumped together to bypass the box. I would assume though if I got no AC voltage on the blue/yellow wire off the pickup then I shouldn't get spark on 15. Either way I get no spark on the whilte/black at the CDI.

 

Found this document ACGTest.pdf that lists ohms for the AC generator/stator for the RXL-40 (I assume they should be the same for the E). Checked mine and I get 1.2-1.3 ohms.

Then I saw this one SCL0005.pdf and ran through it. Everything tested out ok, got the last step where they tell you to run through SCL-0002. This is the document I uploaded in the original post. I stopped testing there since the AC generator being tested was different than mine. I do have a white/red wire so I can check the ohms on that.

 

DC ignition system, slightly unusual, as the coil is fed neg from battery and the pos is pulsed by the CDI. You should get an AC pulse from the trigger coil when cranking, doesn't need to be high, though it can be. The other stator winding are irrelevant as power comes from battery. However, everything is fed through that remote box, so that could be giving trouble. It looks like the blue/yellow is connected to the white/black to send the timing signal into the CDI which is amplified and fed out via the white/blue to the coil.

 

I have tried the tests with the remote box in place and with it removed and the blue/yellow and white/black connected directly together. I've also tested for AC signal, granted its a multimeter that only has 200 or 600 volt options, on the blue/yellow directly and it picks up nothing while cranking. Bump the starter button and the voltage jumps around. Hold it down and it goes to 0. Let off and it jumps but always 0 while cranking.

I can try to adjust the pickup down further as its physically separate (item 15 in the pic below) from what I am calling the AC generator/stator (item 10-2 in the pic below). I assume if 10-2 has failed then I won't be getting any AC voltage on the blue/yellow wire of 15? Could 15 have failed and is there any other way to test 10-2?


Not sure it matters as both those items seem to be unavailable from the looking I've done so far.

 

I had a reply typed up but it keeps getting sent to an admin for approval. I'll try again.

I have bypassed the remote by directly connecting the blue/yellow and white/black wires together and get the same results. I have adjusted the trigger coil down as close to the fly wheel as it will go. Still no AC signal of any sort I can detect on the blue/yellow wire. At this point I have to assume the ac generator/stator and/or that trigger coil/pickup are bad. It might not matter though since I can't seem to find either of those parts being made any more.

 

As I wrote above, the stator just puts charge into the battery, nothing to do with the ignition. Your ignition system is very like that of a 1980s car, (no points but pre fuel injection). The trigger coil will be completely separate to the stator, though in many cases you can't buy one without t'other. Just checked Alpha sports, and although no longer available, they invite you to check with them if an alternative is available. It is possible the 90cc two stroke may use a similar trigger coil, so worth checking.

 

Thanks, I can check with them. So far though I've not found anything that is available. For this model it looks like they separated the ignition module and the ignition coil. The side cover is different as well although that makes me wonder if the side cover from the pull start only version would fit and you could use its ignition coil and module. The 50cc and bigger Eton engines use a different setup and just looking at parts diagrams it doesn't appear any of them will work on the 40cc.

I have a couple emails out checking for the ignition module or an alternative.

 

Feel like a dummy. Looks like scootr dot com sells the ignition module. I was looking at their site yesterday and some how completely missed it. They were recommended by another parts place that listed it as unavailable like most of them I have checked.