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quadsport lt80 air filter and low compression

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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 12:16 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by LT80
The piston will wear, so will the cylinder. This is a standard sleeve. It is not nikasiled (doesn't need bored). It just ran 20 years, it's wore. And, look at the piston. The cylinder will be scared.
You need the next size piston because you cylinder needs bored, thus a bigger piston.
Plus, you mentioned piston rings and gaskets. You'll also need the pin, pin bearing, and cir clips.
Ok, I understand the answer to my first question .

The cylinder needs replaced because it is wore, 20 years will do that. Thats more or less a rule regardless of how it appears.

I am still fuzzy on the response to my second question. If the cylinder and piston need replaced, why am I buying an oversized piston that will need a cylinder to be bored to fit. Isn't it easier to buy a piston that would already fit the new cylinder?? Sorry if I am missing something but thats not adding up for me. Can someone clarify??
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 04:02 PM
  #12  
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The cylinder does not need replaced. I'd bore your cylinder to the next size piston.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 10:58 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by LT80
The cylinder does not need replaced. I'd bore your cylinder to the next size piston.
ok so the wore cylinder gets repaired when doing a bore. Got it. I need to ship the cylinder to you and get it bored. Can you send me approximate costs.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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With the amount of scaring to that piston i would say the cyl is scarred beyond boring out. By the time you take it to a shop and get them to bour out the old cyl your better off to just by new... Take the cyl to a shop and get their opinion... With the amount of damage to that piston their is no point in changing out the cyl and piston without splitting the case and checking everything in the lower end for damage. At the very least you are going to need some bearings in the bottom end if not more. All those shavings and pc's went someware and these things to not have a oil filter so that was all just washing around the lower engine... The extra care you take now will make the difference between the engine lasting another 20 years or lasting 20 days
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 10:35 AM
  #15  
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The cylinder can be cleaned up. If not at .5, it'll surely clean up at 1.0 over.
It's $170 shipping included.
So is the rod tight? Did you get the bottom end washed out?
"all just washing around the lower engine" .. pieces don't wash around, they get blown out the exhaust.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 12:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Zrock
With the amount of scaring to that piston i would say the cyl is scarred beyond boring out. By the time you take it to a shop and get them to bour out the old cyl your better off to just by new... Take the cyl to a shop and get their opinion... With the amount of damage to that piston their is no point in changing out the cyl and piston without splitting the case and checking everything in the lower end for damage. At the very least you are going to need some bearings in the bottom end if not more. All those shavings and pc's went someware and these things to not have a oil filter so that was all just washing around the lower engine... The extra care you take now will make the difference between the engine lasting another 20 years or lasting 20 days
the cylinder looked to be in good conditicon cosmeticically, in my very inexperienced opinion. I will get a picture of it uploaded.
I was concerned as well where the reminants of the cylinder went. Hopefully they all got blown out the exhaust as lt80 mentioned. Once I find some time and a good youtube video, I will take the bottom end apart to inspect. Kinda curious to see what that looks like anyways


 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 11:11 AM
  #17  
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In all my years of messing with blown up engines iv never seen where PC's off the bottom of the piston have blown out the exhaust... only when their is a failure above the piston you may get lucky and they blow out but usually get mashed into the piston... Also if it was blowing the chunks out the bottom would it not also be blowing oil out the exhaust as well... Just my experience.... Does not cost much more to split the case and clean and check everything other than your time. gaskets are cheap and so are bearings if you go to a local shop that specializes in bearings... Usually they are a 1/4 the price as OEM and 1/2 the time the exact same bearing that was OEM
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 02:22 PM
  #18  
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see attached images of the cylinder, cylinder head, and rod. I have a video of my messing with the rod a bit to better show how much play there is but need to see how to attach to a forum post, IF NEEDED. Let me know if you feel I need to replace any or all.









 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 08:30 PM
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The cylinder should clean up at .5 over. If not, we go to 1.0 over.
Pick up and down on the rod. Any up/down isn't good.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 01:12 PM
  #20  
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There is no vertical play in the rod.

Originally Posted by Zrock
With the amount of scaring to that piston i would say the cyl is scarred beyond boring out. By the time you take it to a shop and get them to bour out the old cyl your better off to just by new... Take the cyl to a shop and get their opinion... With the amount of damage to that piston their is no point in changing out the cyl and piston without splitting the case and checking everything in the lower end for damage. At the very least you are going to need some bearings in the bottom end if not more. All those shavings and pc's went someware and these things to not have a oil filter so that was all just washing around the lower engine... The extra care you take now will make the difference between the engine lasting another 20 years or lasting 20 days
Agreed, buying OEM new is the cheaper option.

When I am splitting the case and looking for damage, I only need to work from the left side(when sitting on the atv) at the crankshaft and the crankcase, correct? Do I need to drain any fluid, oil....etc?

I assume we replace the bearings in the bottom end as good measure? part number 5 and 11 in this diagram?

Assuming the head cylinder is fine, I will soak and clean it up.
 
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