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Check the rings are right for the +0.5 piston, if they are, get the old cylinder bored out to suit the new piston and sell the new cylinder on.
Thanks merryman, the rings came with the piston, so have to assume they are right. After calling around 15 different machine shops/atv repair shops around the area, I found a decent option and dropped off my old cylinder, head, piston and rings. Hopefully the machine shop that actually does the work(they don't do the work in house) will ensure the rings fit appropriately in the new bore.
Originally Posted by merryman
Rings have to expand to seal against the cylinder walls, The ends of the rings don't contact the ports as pegs on the piston keep the ends away from the ports, and the chamfers stop the rings catching on the ports as they pass. If the engine shop doesn't do it, you will have to chamfer the ports when you get the cylinder back, most engine shops don't do many two strokes, so may not realise the need to blend the ports in.
That makes complete sense, thank you for that explanation. I chamfer the new cylinder that I received, not to tough of a task, so will be sure to take a look at my OLD Newly bored cylinder when I get it back.
Thank you
My engine machinist doesn't even open the packet of rings, he measures the piston and bores the cylinder to it. If the rings are the right size, they will fit into the cylinder with a small gap at the ends, less then 0.031". Try one in the cylinder when you get it back. When assembling the engine, rings have a correct way up on the piston, markings must be to the top and, of course, the ring ends fit against the pegs in the piston grooves.
Can I please get some help. I can't figure out how the heck to properly install the clutch/transmission. I am following assembly here https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oem...transmission-1
But I dont have enough room on the crankshaft to bolt on. I should have documented disassembly better. 1 2 3 4 5
Found the key, squeezed it in the keyhole. Everything assembled and aligned with the key. Tapped on the spacer, it won't go any further. I think its some issue with the movable drive, but what do I know. The rollers do have flat spots in them, but I made sure to place them flat, and securely hold the movable drive to make sure the rollers to move or turn sideways. Still doesn't want to go on. Getting frustrated. Spacer length measures 1.275 so need the washer. Turned the bike over sideways to assemble the front clutch, still didn't help. The spacer doesn't go into the crank all the way flush up past the grooves in the crank. Needs another 1/8 inch.
Look at both pics (one of the pics above), the spacer is down in on the current pic, not in that one.. I think it's fine. Put the outer face on w/spring washer and nut. Let's take a look see.
Your rollers are scrap. Better get new ones at some point.
I am not sure what pic you are refering to, when the spacer is where it needs to be. Pics are numbered 1-5 for reference, but I am not seeing it. Sorry man. I will try again today , but it seems the spacer has no more room to go in. I have tried and forced attempts to get the nut on but can't ever grab the thread. I am waiting for the "you idiot" light bulb moment haha.
OK, 3rd pic down. See how far out by the splines the spacer is. The newest pic shows the spacer down in and the washer in place. Splines are sticking out.
I'm saying put it together. I think it is OK. If you still wonder, show me a pic of it all together.
Aug 21, 2020 | 02:50 PM
