11.8 volts ?????
#1
Knowsalot - if we need a min. of 11.8 volts, this could explain alot of problems some people are having after start-up. You mention two batteries, do you have a picture/parts list to install.
I got my machine used. I had to replace the starter solinoid after I broke a stud off it changing the cable and the machine has never started so fast before.
Do you think this voltage is the same requirement on an EX ??
I got my machine used. I had to replace the starter solinoid after I broke a stud off it changing the cable and the machine has never started so fast before.
Do you think this voltage is the same requirement on an EX ??
#2
I and along with a few others from the shop race both the Cannondale quads and bikes in harescramble races mostly. ALOT of lessons learned to say the least.
We are not running dual battery setups as of yet, but a few race teams ,NAC's for example are running the dual battery setup for two reasons. One is to get the engine to spin faster on the "dead engine start" races.......and the second reason being that after you stall the engine and restart a couple of times, the voltage sometime gets too low for the computer to function properly. The starter will spin, but will not fire.
We have had this happen a few times with both the quads and bikes. After our own diagnosis and further calaboration with the Cannondale Tech Team, we able to figure out that the lower voltage was causing our problems.
The day before the race, we remove the batteries and charge them for a few hours. We then re-install them and leave them hooked up to a trickle charger all night before the race. [with the battery in the quad]
Cannondale are the ones who said that 11.8 volts was the dead limit for the computer. I know for a fact that it will not start up with 11.4 so I have no reason not to believe them.
When the Cannondales are running, the battery voltage is from 13 to 15 volts with spikes as high as 17.
We are not running dual battery setups as of yet, but a few race teams ,NAC's for example are running the dual battery setup for two reasons. One is to get the engine to spin faster on the "dead engine start" races.......and the second reason being that after you stall the engine and restart a couple of times, the voltage sometime gets too low for the computer to function properly. The starter will spin, but will not fire.
We have had this happen a few times with both the quads and bikes. After our own diagnosis and further calaboration with the Cannondale Tech Team, we able to figure out that the lower voltage was causing our problems.
The day before the race, we remove the batteries and charge them for a few hours. We then re-install them and leave them hooked up to a trickle charger all night before the race. [with the battery in the quad]
Cannondale are the ones who said that 11.8 volts was the dead limit for the computer. I know for a fact that it will not start up with 11.4 so I have no reason not to believe them.
When the Cannondales are running, the battery voltage is from 13 to 15 volts with spikes as high as 17.
#3
It actually states this in the owners manual, not specifically about how low the voltage can go before there is a problem but it does state if the battery is not fully charged, the EMS power relay will disengage when trying to start if the battery voltage gets too low.
#4
<< The day before the race, we remove the batteries and charge them for a few hours. We then re-install them and leave them hooked up to a trickle charger all night before the race. [with the battery in the quad] >>
Knowsalot,
I'm going to try this out since I've had the very same problems in my harescrambles races too. I have a question though....when attaching the trickle charger with the battery in the quad, do you have to disconnect the battery leads or can you just connect the charger directly to the battery terminals with the leads connected??
#6
Brian is right.
You do not have to disconnect anything when using the TRICKLE charge method. Put the "positive" lead from the charger on the positive battery terminal and then attach the "ground" lead from the charger to any part of your frame.
You do not have to disconnect anything when using the TRICKLE charge method. Put the "positive" lead from the charger on the positive battery terminal and then attach the "ground" lead from the charger to any part of your frame.
#7
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#8
You don't. These are full injected which means they are ran by a computer. If the computer does not have enough juice to function the bike or quad will not function. I myself have never had this problem, personally I don't think it is to difficult to recharge the battery every once in a while. It is common sense, if you are dependent on the battery being charged, wouldn't you charge the battery every few "few as in like 6-12" trips to the dunes or trails or MX track?
#9
I was in a parade this past winter with a strobe light and all the lights on fan was running all the time I stalled the motor when we were returning from parade route the battery was so dead the lights were barely on I got a push start started no problem yes I didnt have a volt meter handy and there more than likely was some voltage left but all that happened when you hit the start was a click from solenoid.I believe that the starter is taking up most juice if you push start it all the juice goes to comp.and fuel pump and it will start this may not be practical at most races but in the harescrambles I have been at there usually is someone willing to help a guy I have push started lots of other people over the years especially if there was no other way around ha ha.
#10
Sounds as if I'll have to carry jumper cables as well as the tow strap I now carry on my 400EX.Not a problem,I also carry stuff to plug and air up a tire,water for me to drink and clean my goggles, tissues to blow my nose or whipe my butt!And that's o.k. too.
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