250r torque pipes and carbs
#1
#2
Are you looking to build a motor that is biased towards mid range power???
If that is you intention. I'd like to offer these suggestions.
Increases in compression along with getting the squish band properly set-up will increase low-mid range power. Also porting the cylinder for a mid range bias will always help. You could also bore the cylinder out to a 270, where the increase in bore size will help mellow out any "peakiness" that you may have in your powerband.
A aftermarket reed cage will certaintly help, especially when coupled with dual stage reeds that will provide crisp throttle response througout the power range.
I'd also like to reccomend perhaps running a slightly smaller carb size for a low-mid motor. A 35 PWK AirStriker will provide excellent characteristics at lower RPM's, but still allow sufficient power at higher RPM's. A 38 PWK AirStriker will also work, definately when coupled with the proper port job, compression increases, and reed changes. It just may not be super-crisp on bottom like the 35 would be, but would have a greater top-end potential.
I've had a motor done here locally by JSD Racing for a mid-range biased motor. To date it has been the smoothest, easiest to ride, but yet very potent motors that I've ridden. I had this done to my wife's motor.
For porting and head mods would be about $250.00, carb another $235, reeds only- $40.00, aftermarket reed block- $135. (Prices approxiamted).
LRD has a good mid-range pipe. You certaintly couldn't go wrong with a Paul Turner Mid-range pipe either. But on the few occasions that I have spoke with Arlan at LRD about that, he claims his pipes far exceed the PTR pipes. But then again who wouldn't claim they have the best...but I think that either pipe would be suitable.
If that is you intention. I'd like to offer these suggestions.
Increases in compression along with getting the squish band properly set-up will increase low-mid range power. Also porting the cylinder for a mid range bias will always help. You could also bore the cylinder out to a 270, where the increase in bore size will help mellow out any "peakiness" that you may have in your powerband.
A aftermarket reed cage will certaintly help, especially when coupled with dual stage reeds that will provide crisp throttle response througout the power range.
I'd also like to reccomend perhaps running a slightly smaller carb size for a low-mid motor. A 35 PWK AirStriker will provide excellent characteristics at lower RPM's, but still allow sufficient power at higher RPM's. A 38 PWK AirStriker will also work, definately when coupled with the proper port job, compression increases, and reed changes. It just may not be super-crisp on bottom like the 35 would be, but would have a greater top-end potential.
I've had a motor done here locally by JSD Racing for a mid-range biased motor. To date it has been the smoothest, easiest to ride, but yet very potent motors that I've ridden. I had this done to my wife's motor.
For porting and head mods would be about $250.00, carb another $235, reeds only- $40.00, aftermarket reed block- $135. (Prices approxiamted).
LRD has a good mid-range pipe. You certaintly couldn't go wrong with a Paul Turner Mid-range pipe either. But on the few occasions that I have spoke with Arlan at LRD about that, he claims his pipes far exceed the PTR pipes. But then again who wouldn't claim they have the best...but I think that either pipe would be suitable.
#3
Well, What type of power delivery you want will play a part in the best pipe. Although I love CT and have had much success with their work (1998 GFTL ATV Pro Champion) I would recommend the Paul Turner over anything else for bottom-mid power. They are smooth but have a good pull the only thing they don't do is rev out well but you said you wanted bottom-mid power. I have owned just about every pipe and silencer combination out there and The Paul Turner is what I would go with based on what you have said. Also, I don't know how well your motor will perform as a tuned package if you get porting, pipe, carb all from different places. Pick one, and get their complete package you will be glad you did. I hope I have not insulted anyone with this response. I swear by CT and think they do the best motors out there. But the Paul turner engines I have raced against have great bottom, arguably more than any other engine builder. That is my 2 cents.
CT250R...1986 CT310R , 1988 CT270R
CT250R...1986 CT310R , 1988 CT270R
#5
We'll I am assuming that you have a TRX250R and not a blaster. The CT330 kit will give great torque but will not rev out quite as well as a 250 will. What kind of power are you looking for? smooth? hard hitting? screamer? The CT National pipe has a good burst on the lower mid and revs out reasonably well but not like the FMF fatty or even the LRD Team B will. The LRD is what I use on my '86 (CT310 kit) because with the CT it hit a little too hard and was losing traction on the track. Also the LRD revs out and gives a broader powerband. It really is what you are looking for personally as well as what kind of porting you have. I own 2 250R's both by CT and they both use 2 different pipes to achieve the same result: A smooth complete powerband from lower-mid to upper- midrange. I think that the short rod motors (like my '86) work better with a pipe that has more hit and more midrange oriented than the '88-89 Longer rod engines. (My '88 works best with an FMF "Fatty" pipe.) We'll I'll quit rambling if you have any questions e-mail me and I would be glad to help any way I can.
CT250R
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CRamshaw777
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07-18-2015 05:46 PM
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