2005 polaris scrambler drive belt problem
#1
I have a 2005 polaris scrambler 500 4x4 .. I have replaced the drive belt now on its fourth belt... The belts I have used are on the price range of around $40.00 .. I dont know if its using the cheaper belts causing the problem or not... I hate to buy the better belts and continue to with the same problem.. Any thing I should do first before upgrading to a better belt ???
#2
Welcome to the forum! First off stick with the OEM belt. Seems like most posters have the best luck with them. If you haven't checked/replaced the front clutch slide buttons along with the driven clutch ramp buttons ,might be time to do this. Plus clutch plain bearings don't last forever which could affect belt wear and life along with making sure the clutches are aligned. Also if front engine motor mount has separated will cause drive clutch to flex which could be hard on belts. Just some of the things to check out. OPT
#3
Thanks for your suggestions... All of which I need to have replaced, as I have had the bike for about 2 years with the only problems I had seems to been the belts.. But also some issues with the carb float and needle valve sticking open causing gas to get into the engine crankcase..."Which stemmed from my neglect on not shutting off the fuel supply valve after every day of riding"... I am going to start with your suggestion of checking front engine motor mount, mainly due to when belt problems come up seems to be after riding my bike hard such as hard accleration and steep climbing of terrain.. Other then visual inspection of mount any thing in specific I should be looking for??? Thanks...
#4
You summed it up pretty well when you mentioned hard acceleration which is what most people do with the Scrambler and what it's designed for,but a little tough on belts!
Plus needle and seat leaking through the overflow or into the crankcase has always been a little nuisance on the BST40 carb.Plus shutting off the fuel valve helps even though it does have a vacuum fuel pump,it can still pull a vacuum with fuel valve on (and the needle valve worn) and dump gas in the crank case.. Might be a good idea to check the oil tank to see if it smells like gas has contaminated the oil. As far as any motor mount damage you can pry up on the front motor mount to see if it's separated, plus you can check if the drive clutch flexes when you have the cover off. Plus make sure the belt is pretty well centered on the front clutch and alignment should be fairly good. OPT
Plus needle and seat leaking through the overflow or into the crankcase has always been a little nuisance on the BST40 carb.Plus shutting off the fuel valve helps even though it does have a vacuum fuel pump,it can still pull a vacuum with fuel valve on (and the needle valve worn) and dump gas in the crank case.. Might be a good idea to check the oil tank to see if it smells like gas has contaminated the oil. As far as any motor mount damage you can pry up on the front motor mount to see if it's separated, plus you can check if the drive clutch flexes when you have the cover off. Plus make sure the belt is pretty well centered on the front clutch and alignment should be fairly good. OPT
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