My thoughts on this were it hasn't started with the new ecm , being a different brand it may need a tighter trigger coil gap , other things to look for is the ignition coil good , or a defective trigger coil ?

 

Good point,but would seem that checking at least for spark would have been one of the first things the shop techs would have done when they changed the ecm out and it wouldn't crank up.That is if the techs know what they're doing in the first place.

 

Hey old polaris

Finally got my bike back it took 4 months. Month and a half of being worked on here and there. I got pissed and they took it more serious in august. They replaced the harness which was on back order for 1 month and now works fine. Also got the ecm replaced and key ignition which was a free bee. Total cost was $800 tax in. Not bad considering I made them chop off hours cause of the long wait.

My next issue is my radiator fan part number 2410383 is bad. I see replacement from dealer is lots of money. Can you suggest a replacement from say napa. Cause I'm in canada. Thx

 

I guess if they replaced all that it ought to be running.. As far as the fan go directly to the source which is Spal. Can save $ over dealer prices. Can't remember if it's a 10 or 12 inch fan. They have them here.https://advancedsportvehicles.com/sp...-atv-fans.html and on ebay.Spal Cooling Fan | eBay You may have to use your old connector but no big deal..

 

My Dealer wanted $320 for the spal fan ! I bought the same brand new spal fan off ebay for $80.

Here is Spals web sight you can by pass the thieving dealer https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...rcycleatv.aspx

 

Thx for the reply....I went to parts source which is in canada where I live and got a universal car 10" fan. Cost $99 came with kit which secured it through fins to radiator. Fit like a glove and works great. Thx for the help.

 

Hey old polaris the front axels are loose with play at the differential end and the drive shaft has play, will I need a new drive shaft and u joints or is there a way to tell if it's the shaft or joints that's causing the play.. as well what's the most likely parts I will need with these issues. Thx scott.....

 

U joints take a beating on the prop shaft from the gear case to the front diff. A lot of people forget to grease them for the most part,especially the rear one. All u joints are same no matter what machine. Fairly cheap on ebay.http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-07-POLARIS-500-RANGER-4X4-ALL-YEARS-REAR-FRONT-PROP-SHAFT-U-JOINT-/231705959033?hash=item35f2c05a79&vxp=mtr Same for the cv joint drive shafts on the front and rear. There will be some play on these at the differential,but if the boots are in good shape,cv joints aren't making noise,then I wouldn't worry too much about them.

 

boots are good just seems like too much play....there is some sloppy Ness to front end and some noise coming from diff. Just not sure if that's normal.

 

Any unusual noise may be from the plastic roll cage. Common problem on these to crack. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If that's the problem I'd switch to aluminum and solve that from happening again.http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-06-Polaris-Sportsman-Ranger-500-Front-Differential-Roll-Cage-3234167-/161080406849?hash=item258123f341&vxp=mtr