IF in doubt remove the flywheel and stator! Have the lower sprocket mark inline with the case mark to be absolute on tdc. Doesn't really matter on the colored links whether you line them up as shown or not as once the engine turns over the marks wont line up again.Just make sure the alignment pin is dead center of the head as shown.Replace the cam tensioner after you get the cam chain on and sprocket bolts tightened and valves adjusted. Once you turn the engine over slowly with the recoil starter the tensioner self adjusts.

 

so i got to the installation of the tensioner and rand into a problem..i think..the chain guide should be down resting on the cyl. and head correct?..if so, where did i go wrong and can it be resolved without taking the head back off??

 

 

You can leave the head on,but probably need to pull the flywheel and stator to be able to get the tensioner guide into the slot by the crank shaft.And yes it's supposed to go back in the cylinder before you install the head.

 

i pulled the recoil and the nut was just stripped, riding around in there smh..the key and wheel are still in place thank god.....you think i could tap it down without taking that off?

 

Don't really know as I always installed it before I placed the head back on,plus it's got a tab that fits in the cylinder cavity if I remember correctly..Might still be hard to do with out removing the head..

 

yeah i thought i had it popped in...guess not

 

so the flywheel nut was stripped and im wondering if theres anything special about it..can i just go to the local hardware store for it(if so does anyone know the size?)..or do i have to go with this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-3083905-NUT-LOCK-/271997505023?hash=item3f54508dff&vxp=mtr ...

 

16x1.5?

 

That's the size I've found so far. If threads aren't too buggered up on the shaft you can use a thread file. I've got a well used one in my toolbox that I've used many times over the years. If that doesn't work you'll have get the correct die and rethread it.