I will check out again to make sure I have ground on the brown white wire I spliced into. Also how would I check the coil with 12 volts and make sure that is ingaguing the armature plate? That part I am not sure on.

 

Simple battery or jump box to the coil plate wires.Positive lead to the gray,negative to the brown/white. Then hold the plate close to the coil.If working right it should hold the plate.Disconnect power and the armature plate should be released. Coil,roller cage and armature plate are the main parts for awd engagement.I'd still replace the cage with an aluminum one and a new armature plate if the coil checks out ok.

 

when I took the front dif apart the plate came out with the top cover, it was stuck to the magnet/coil. I will check the coil though how you described. thank you!

 

i just got on polaris.com to look up the part numbers for the armature, coil, and roll cage... it asked me if it was built before or after july. mine is built before july, may i think. so it is called a demand drive. this is compared to the ones built after july where they do not specify anything. does this change anything that we have talked about?

 

No. As far as the roller cage and armature plate you can get these at ebay,amazon,etc.Most fit the 500,700,800. Check around on price. They can rage from a little over 100 bucks for a cage to over 200+ for both in a package deal depending on brand.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Spo....c100005.m1851

 

just did my 04 ATP got complete kit 279$ off ebay quad logic all new parts bearings, rollers, spring clips, alluminium cage, and armature plate,seals ,bushings replaced everything! for your part#might be different but get everything replace what you need good luck

 

I had the differential apart and cleaned it all really well. I did your test of hooking a battery to the wires that go to the coil and the coil worked great. I put the differential back in the wheeler just enough to bolt it back in and hook the prop shaft back on. I hooked the connector back up and I have same as battery voltage like 12.2 or more if the charger is hooked up to the battery, i have this reading at the connector with it unplugged from the coil connector. on the coil side of the connector I cut the grey wire and stripped back both sides. once I twist the wires together I have no voltage. disconnect the wires and I have 12 volts on the grey wire coming from the switch. when the wires are hooked up the coil does not engage. I ran a wire straight from my battery and when I hook that to the wire going to the coil I can hear it grab the armature and the front differential is engaged. why do I lose the voltage once I hook the two grey wires together? is it the front differential or something else? I thought when I ran the wire from the battery and hooked the 2 grey wires to that wire the awd symbol would light on the speedo but no luck. I have the brown /white wire spliced and grounded with the brown wire that goes to the coil. I guess I could jerry rig it to work but I don't understand why it wouldnt work with the grey wire. 12 volts is 12 volts right?

 

Sounds like you may have narrowed down the problem area. Red/white wire jumps power to the gray wire when awd mode is engaged on the switch.Possible that the switch itself is shorting out. Doesn't sound like a diff coil problem as it works good straight from the battery.Problem on this is that if you narrow it down to this switch you have to get a new throttle housing unless you can find an obvious short. Plus the part number is superceded by part# 2010336 which may or may not mean anything.Speodo and awd test in Chapter 10 page 14 of the manual may help solve the problem or at least narrow it down some..http://polaris-atv.brssm.com/2007-Po...ce-Manual.html

 

Yes I saw this kit.. Good price for all that you get..

 

Is that blue pinch tap connector still hooked up near speedo could that be the issue maybe undo and just try grounding both browns at coil connector