Hello fellow Polaris fans, I am brand new this forum and would like some help if at all possible. Not mentally though ! LOL I have a 99 400 Explorer 4X4, I do alot of work with this bike, plowing snow, hauling logs from the bush and so on. My problem occurred on the weekend after I had finished pulling for the day I decided to go for a blast to clean 'er out when I discovered my clutch was no longer shifting, MAXIMUM 15 mph. I would believe it is the driven clutch that is giving me my headache. I also noticed (after installing new belt) that the primary clutch is starting to wear unevenly at the lowest point close to the shaft. Doesn't sound good to me. Does anyone have some input ???
Thanks in advance

 

I'm not sure about the secondary, I can't quite picture what your describing. If the primary isn't closing, check the plastic retaining nut on the spider, they have been known to come lose and will prevent the primary from closing.

 

I think your primary clutch is just dirty and your faces are gummed up due to, as you say: "I do alot of work with this bike, plowing snow, hauling logs from the bush and so on." All stuff thats done at low speeds. Have a look at the faces of the secondary while the belt is off also...

Take your belt off and have a look at the faces, make sure they are clean. Also lubricate your shaft, buttons, etc and make sure everything works freely. Once cleaned and lubed, start bike and put in gear with no belt and rev up a few times to see if she engages..., if it does, shut off, put on belt, cover, and enjoy...
.....Honcho

 

after this, try some brake cleaner. then take it to a good dealership.

 

If the Primary is not closing then would the bike not move at all? The faces of both clutches are clean. I will check the retaining nut and clean and lube shaft and buttons etc. To lovemud, in low gear the bike will do 5 mph max, in high gear it will do 15 mph max. so correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the primary close and then the secondary opens to achieve increased speed? The bike will still take off like normal, wheelie and all but rpm tops out at the above mentioned speeds! I thank you gentlemen for your responses and well ..... as for the "good dealership" I'm not sure where you would find one of these up here in the Great White North !

 

Your Correct, The primary spins faster and centrifical force makes the wieghts swing out and forces the sheaves together and the belt moves toward the top of the sheaves, as this happens the sheaves on the secondary are forced open changing the gear ratio. If the secondary is not closing the the engine will scream and the machine will not pick up any speed. There is a plastic retaining nut on the shaft on the primary, it's purpose is to limit the amount of closure on the primary. These have been known to work lose and interfere with the normal closure of the primary. If you have alot of hours on the machine you may also want to take the cover off the primary, remove the spring, take the belt off and make sure the mechanism moves freely (closes) without any binding.

Good luck ! (it's really not as complicated to work on as it sounds)

 

What I do to check the functionality of the clutch is to put the quad up on a quad jack so all four wheels are hanging. Remove the clutch cover so that you can see the operation of the clutch. Then start it up, put it in gear (making sure you keep body parts away from the moving clutches) and slowly increase the rpm. As the rpm increase check the operation of the primary and secondary clutches. Both should operate equal but opposite to eah other and do it smoothly.
Your problem could be a stuck secondary (driven) clutch.
Just my thoughts, good luck.

 

Thank you fellow boreweelers for all the input, I shall be working on 'er this morning, again thanks and I shall reply with my findings!!

 

Take your driven clutch off and inspect the 3 plastic buttons.9 times out of 10 the screw that holds these buttons in the clutch breaks off and button floats around and jams up clutch not allowing it to shift .remember when reinstalling the helix to prewind the clutch 1/3 turn.and by the way,if you cannot get the broken screw out,i have already drilled them out and tapped them out to 10-24 thread,go get yourself some allen head 10-24 screws,they are a lot stronger and will not break off. Good luck !

 

After removing clutch cover, I hoisted bike up and started it up. When pinning the throtle, I noticed the entire engine twisting in the frame. Is this weak rubbers in the mounts, broken mounts or is there a certain amount that the engine does twist ? In this case it looks to be moving 3/16 to 1/4 ". Haven't inspected mounts as of yet, this job looks like a complete bike tear down. Any thoughts ??