front sprocket for pred
#12
you mean faster in 1st through 3rd
Will I lose top end performance?
hey hozed can you tell me if this is normal? I took my 14 tooth stocker off and I noticed on the back side of the sprocket, the side facing the trans, that there is like a wear groove all the way around the sprocket is this normal?
and one other question? hope I can explain in the right way, when you put the sprocket on then you put the fixing plate on they both dont line up exactly on the shaft. the fixing plate will be off like a half of tooth or so is this the way it is suppose to be hope I explained it alright thanks again hozed
Will I lose top end performance?
hey hozed can you tell me if this is normal? I took my 14 tooth stocker off and I noticed on the back side of the sprocket, the side facing the trans, that there is like a wear groove all the way around the sprocket is this normal?
and one other question? hope I can explain in the right way, when you put the sprocket on then you put the fixing plate on they both dont line up exactly on the shaft. the fixing plate will be off like a half of tooth or so is this the way it is suppose to be hope I explained it alright thanks again hozed
#13
You got the fixing plate right... it's suppose to set in the groove, just off-set of the splines... keeps the sproket off the case. I ended up drilling mine out a little to get the S.S. sprocket to fit.
I ran the 13/38 combo in mine... loved every minute of it. Lots-o low end. Since I got the new exhaust and cdi, I've gone down a tooth in the rear... still playing with it.
I ran the 13/38 combo in mine... loved every minute of it. Lots-o low end. Since I got the new exhaust and cdi, I've gone down a tooth in the rear... still playing with it.
#15
Yeah, I always run the sprockets and chains as a set... never mix and match... at least after a few rides. I kept the stock set-up 14/37 and chain and ran those in wide-open dirt when I was looking for top-end. Then for woods and sand riding I put on the 13/38 set (with it's own chain).
Your chain stretches as you use it and wears on the gears. If you change one of the sprockets or chain out independently, everything wears faster. If you keep them together they'll last a lot longer...
Nothing worse than testing out why they call that little hunk of metal in front of the front sprocket a case saver...
Your chain stretches as you use it and wears on the gears. If you change one of the sprockets or chain out independently, everything wears faster. If you keep them together they'll last a lot longer...
Nothing worse than testing out why they call that little hunk of metal in front of the front sprocket a case saver...
#16
very useful info I must add but now your scareing me
so in other words I should not use the stock chain, if I want to run just a 13F, or just a 38R, or both. I should have to buy a new chain?
so in other words I should not use the stock chain, if I want to run just a 13F, or just a 38R, or both. I should have to buy a new chain?
#17
I pretty much only introduce a new sprocket as a set with new chain. You'll need to decide for yourself on what you want to do... That's what I do and it works for me... People interchange used with new all the time and it works for them.
More detailed rationale:
If you look at the worn sprocket, it's cupped on one side, from the base to the tip. This is caused by two things, debris grinding the material away and the chain stretching. A new chain rests in the root of sprocket ideally. A stretched chain has a longer distance between the pins and doesn't nest in the root of a new sprocket, but rides up on the tooth more. Causing pre-mature wear. Simillarly with a warn sprocket and new chain. The distance between the pin in the chain and the root of the sprocket are different because of the difference in wear. If they wear at the same rate, the chain doesn't ride harder on the sprocket causing a quicker rate of wear.
Granted things won't break or fall apart immediately, but they do wear faster, ultimately costing more money in the long run (for new chain and sprockets).
Considering a quad costs around 6K... a chain and two sprockets are cheap.
Hope this helps.
More detailed rationale:
If you look at the worn sprocket, it's cupped on one side, from the base to the tip. This is caused by two things, debris grinding the material away and the chain stretching. A new chain rests in the root of sprocket ideally. A stretched chain has a longer distance between the pins and doesn't nest in the root of a new sprocket, but rides up on the tooth more. Causing pre-mature wear. Simillarly with a warn sprocket and new chain. The distance between the pin in the chain and the root of the sprocket are different because of the difference in wear. If they wear at the same rate, the chain doesn't ride harder on the sprocket causing a quicker rate of wear.
Granted things won't break or fall apart immediately, but they do wear faster, ultimately costing more money in the long run (for new chain and sprockets).
Considering a quad costs around 6K... a chain and two sprockets are cheap.
Hope this helps.
#18
I agree with you 100% that must be the answer to my question then, I had asked why there was a wear groove on the side of the sprocket facing the engine which was my stock 14 tooth sprocket with the stock 37 rear and stock chain makes sense now
thanks again 2mnytoyz.....................
thanks again 2mnytoyz.....................
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