I run a 44-36 helix, what is working for the rest of you and what have you tried as far as drag racing goes? I haven't tried anything but this one myself. I was thinking about if I could make a change for the better.

 

DALTON is the way to go. If you need any help on finding out what works best for your atv. Give Dalton a call tell them I sent you Kathy Self.

Dalton Industries Limited
355 Vimy Road,
Truro, Nova Scotia
B2N 4K2 Canada


Phone: (902)-897-3333
Fax: (902)-897-6254
Email: info@daltonindustries.com

 

Kathy, good to see you promote your sponsors, they like that stuff.


Hillclimber, nice bikes! I just now looked at your pics. With trail porting HP is down some, so I would go with a 40-36 or even a straight 40. The 58 weights along with that 44-36 helix will tend to shift out real fast. I'm sure it seems plenty fast compared to your other one and runs good, but it could probably use some tuning for sand and could get better for hill shooting. I would try a set of 10-56 weights with the factory 40 helix if you still have it, or get a 40-36. The 36 will help keep the rpms up at the top end whereas the straight 40 will pull them down just a touch. The weights will be a big key for hill shooting. When pulling a load such as a sand hill the heavy weights wont react fast enough and tend the pull the motor down a bit. The lighter weights will keep the motor rpms up where they need to be in the power range. It all has to work together and can make your head spin sometimes trying to figure it out.

 

Thanks for the info Bubba, I do have the stock helix still I will try it this weekend along with the 10-56 weights.

 

Cool, you might be surpised. Also try one or the other by themselves. Your combo is different than most so experimenting will be the key. No company will be able to tell you that a certain combo will work for you in your situation.Bubba

 

Bubba297, I was just going over my notes from last season and I had swithched over to the 10-56 weights then and I was maintaining 7200 rpms up the hill. So what do you think Bubba just swithch the helix for now and what holes would you put the violet secondary in. Thanks Hillclimber

 

If you can see from before that it was holding the rpms, then go with a helix change first. The only main thing you want to pay attention to is if the rpms drop a hair when shifting out for the first 150 feet or so. If it does then you need to drop the first number on the helix. If it doesnt then leave it be. Sounds like the 10-56 weights are the ticket for you,though. You might gain a bit of rpms going up the hill with a straight 40 and that should be perfect. I would try to stay around 7300-7400. If it was race ported then you could push it up to around 7500-7600 for max power. Honestly I believe the power should be at around 7200 where you said, but when it gets under a load it might try to drop so it would be best to keep them a little higher to start with. Now......... I am basing a lot of this on the fact that you do a lot of sand hillclimbing. It would be a little different if you just rode it around on regular tires on dirt or something like that. Bubba

 

Bubbua, when you say drop the 1st # on the helix, are you talking about changing from a 44-36 to a 42-36 for instance? Also I see in Hot seats cat they have a 48-40 for drag racing. They also have a 45-40 and HPD has a 44-40. If I am willing to spend the money what should I get or do you still suggest the stock 40 helix. and what secondary spring and holes for pretension do you recommend. I am not going out now till the 16th, so I have time to order I want to spend the day there just test & Tune

 

Yes the first number. What that does is slows down the shift out a little bit and will keep the rpms more steady. Too much helix angle will cause the clutch (secondary) to shift out (open up) quicker and that can sometimes load the motor and pull the rpms down. A 48-40 is a lot of helix. Hotseat does their clutch setups differently than the others so that helix might not work with the other race setups either.