i plan on checking my front brakes(pads) on my scrambler.......
#11
Originally posted by: user3657
hrm I didnt have to replace them but i did remove them and put them back on and didnt need a c-clamp. did i do something wroung? I have never blead the front brakes but i assume that you unscrew the bleeder while keeping the brake held?
what about that alenhead screw I was talking about? how tight should this be. I dont have a air gun, gotta do everything buy hand!
Originally posted by: Bing
a shop manual will take all of the guesswork out of it
money well spent
as far as the front brakes go
do one side at a time,,,,,so you have something to compare as you work
front pad wear limit is .150",,,,new is .275"
you will need a c-clamp to compress the piston if you replace the pads
and be sure the dust boots are seated properly and not ripped
Are you familiar with how to blead the front brakes?
a shop manual will take all of the guesswork out of it
money well spent
as far as the front brakes go
do one side at a time,,,,,so you have something to compare as you work
front pad wear limit is .150",,,,new is .275"
you will need a c-clamp to compress the piston if you replace the pads
and be sure the dust boots are seated properly and not ripped
Are you familiar with how to blead the front brakes?
hrm I didnt have to replace them but i did remove them and put them back on and didnt need a c-clamp. did i do something wroung? I have never blead the front brakes but i assume that you unscrew the bleeder while keeping the brake held?
what about that alenhead screw I was talking about? how tight should this be. I dont have a air gun, gotta do everything buy hand!
you would only need to use the c-clamp if you were replacing the pads (to make a little more room for the larger pads)
tighten them till they are snug,,,,,and then just a little more (you want to be able to remove them in the future with out stripping them)
no gun needed for any of this
ft/lbs are how much you torque the nuts/bolts (you can buy a torque wrench at sears) (measures how tight something is)
#12
yeah, blead the fluid thru by pressing the brake lever and loosening/tightening the bleeder valve
be sure the reservoir is full while you do this
be sure the reservoir is full while you do this
#14
but you should not need to bleed the brakes unless you opened the bleeder, or changed a line. Just changing the pads does not require any bleeding of the brake lines.
If you do bleed them find a rubber hose that fits tightly over the bleeder, put the other end into a bottle of new brake fluid. Have someone activate the brakes and hold them (or use the hand brake and lock it on). While the brake is held open the bleeder a little and let the air out. Fluid will ocme out, but if you had air you will see bubbles. Quickly close it and activate the brakes again. Continue this until you do not see any air bubbles, but remember to check the resevoir to ensure you do not run low (this will add air in the line). You may need to do this at all three brake locations.
If you do bleed them find a rubber hose that fits tightly over the bleeder, put the other end into a bottle of new brake fluid. Have someone activate the brakes and hold them (or use the hand brake and lock it on). While the brake is held open the bleeder a little and let the air out. Fluid will ocme out, but if you had air you will see bubbles. Quickly close it and activate the brakes again. Continue this until you do not see any air bubbles, but remember to check the resevoir to ensure you do not run low (this will add air in the line). You may need to do this at all three brake locations.
#15
Do you see where the caliper presses the pads? This cylinder needs to be pushed in when replacing with new pads. C-clamps work the best because you can open them around the entire cylinder and squeeze it together. Be careful not to press against the edge of the cylinder, clamp it in the middle. Going on the edge can dent it and make it scrape the walls which in turn will cause you to ruin the caliper.
#16
thanks. I know changing pads dont require bleeding, but always good to know. I almost did it today but was too lazy. there is some softness in them.
thanks again.
thanks again.
#17
Originally posted by: user3657
thanks. I know changing pads dont require bleeding, but always good to know. I almost did it today but was too lazy. there is some softness in them.
thanks again.
thanks. I know changing pads dont require bleeding, but always good to know. I almost did it today but was too lazy. there is some softness in them.
thanks again.
potentially big improvement for little effort
#18
you may have to adjust the pad adjuster screw (large set screw on the back of the caliper on one side) if the pads are dragging really bad (can overheat brakes)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
UPLou
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
2
Jun 7, 2015 09:42 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




