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  #21  
Old 12-20-2004, 10:41 PM
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Well last night I got the acid in the battery and then charged it. This morning when I went out to put it on the atv. It was sitting in a small puddle of acid. Well the acid had come from the vent spout. Well I got that mess cleaned up and took the battery down to a local Tire and battery place to ask them to check it all out for me. Well they said that it was done okay. So I put it on my atv. It started right up. But there is still acid coming out of the vent tube. The tube is in a loop. So the acid cant leak on the garage floor. But if there is acid in the tube. How is the gas escaping. Boy this battery is really kicking my butt. I just dont want it to explode on me. I guess I just worry to much about the small stuff. Stress sucks.


Merry Christmas.
 
  #22  
Old 12-21-2004, 12:58 AM
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Sounds like the battery is overflowing when the charging system is trying to charge it. You shouldnt block off that vent tube. I usually remove the plugs on the battery when I have it out and charge it. That way the acid doesnt run all over my quad. If the acid level is good, you might want to check out the voltage going to the battery just to make sure. I think there are gel cell batteries out there for atv's. I have one in my truck and harley. The best thing Ive ever used. When the stock unit on my ATV goes, I will go with one on that too.
 
  #23  
Old 12-21-2004, 04:39 AM
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Some basic info...

Battery Testing Made Easy
Courtesy of Yuasa Battery

The heart of your vehicle is your battery. In order to accurately check it, you need the proper tools, such as a digital multimeter. To check the standing condition of your battery--referred to as Open Circuit Voltage--pull off your seat or side cover (or, in some cases, your tank) to expose your battery terminals. Put the meter on the "20 V" range setting and measure the voltage by putting each meter lead to the proper battery terminal (this can also be done if you have any kind of connection directly to your battery, such as a charger lead or other auxiliary outlet). Hooking up the meter backwards will not affect the battery or its reading; it will simply show a "-" (negative) reading. For example, "-12.50" still means 12.50 volts, but means the leads to the meter are connected to the battery in reverse. From this reading you can pretty much determine the condition of the battery. If you just came off a ride, or just charged the battery, the meter will show a "surface charge." This merely means there is an extra charge on the surface of the plates, which will give an inaccurate reading of the actual battery condition. The best idea is to let the battery sit for at least an hour before doing any testing. The voltages that Yuasa, for example, considers a battery to be fully charged are as follows:
Conventional batteries (12N type) - 12.50 to 12.70 volts Yumicron batteries (YB type) - 12.7 to 12.9 volts Sealed (AGM) batteries (YTX type) - 12.8 to 13.0 volts
Keep in mind that all batteries are different and all meters do not read the same. Variances in these numbers, in either direction, by as much as 1% are quite common, so if you do see this type of variance, there is no need for alarm.
The second part of the battery testing procedure-the "load test''--would be to put the transmission in neutral and start it. While watching the voltmeter, you will notice a much lower voltage flash by; this would be when the starter is actually loading the battery. A reading of 9.5 volts or higher is generally considered to indicate a good battery. This load test is probably the best way to determine the battery's starting ability.

While the vehicle is running, observe the voltmeter. Generally, you should see the voltage climbing (at idle, most vehicles do not usually charge well). If at this time you turn on some additional lights, the brake light or other accessories, you will notice a drop in voltage, possibly below 12.0 volts. This is why slow, short rides are hard on your battery. If you have to do a lot of stop-and-go type riding, make sure you turn off any extra lights and accessories.

Now take the throttle and turn it up to cruising speed (usually around 3000 rpm). At this point the charging system should be at its full potential. Manufacturers usually set this voltage between 13.8 and 14.5 volts. If you get a lower reading than 13.8, you may be having a problem with your charging system and/or battery. If you get a reading of more than 15.0 volts, it most likely means that the battery is overcharging, which could result in excessive water loss and shortened battery life.
Make sure that your battery is always topped off with distilled water. Never add acid to a battery after initial activation. Batteries never lose acid, only the water in the acid. Check periodically to make sure the water level is filled to the upper level line to prevent premature damage.

If you want to check the specific gravity of your conventional battery, use a hydrometer (Yuasa suggests using a good glass hydrometer, meant for ATV-type batteries). Floating ball testers are good for basic testing, but are not precision testing tools by any means. Follow the instructions as outlined by the battery manufacturer.

Your battery's main enemies are heat and vibration. Too much of either can cause the plates to deteriorate, lose power and eventually short out. Lack of proper charging is another killer. It is recommended that you check your battery for state of charge once a month. If charging is needed, automatic chargers, such as the line just introduced by Yuasa, are the best way to ensure long life for your battery.

Sealed, maintenance-free batteries are becoming more popular. Also referred to as "AGM" or "Absorbed Glass Mat," these batteries, although still lead acid type, do not require checking the water level and also provide a much higher resistance to vibration (they still require proper charging and maintenance, however)
Batteries are living things, and we should all take care of them. Proper care of your battery-including keeping it grime-free and making sure all cables and connections are tight and in good physical condition--should ensure many years of good service out of your battery.
For more information on battery care, visit the Yuasa Batteries website at www.yuasabatteries.com.

 
  #24  
Old 12-21-2004, 11:51 AM
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jimmypsp700

Wow thanks for all the info. I'll have to look into getting one of those gel batteries. Having to add your own acid is one of the more asinine (sorry for the pun) things I've ever had to deal with.
 
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