Changing front springs...
#11
Thor,
All Polaris 4x4's have always had cv joints on the front. The cv joint is the part with the rubber boot on it that goes through the bottom of the strut. Before you get all worked up, go look at your wheeler and you will admit that I'm right.
The procedure you described is a very condensed version of Farmr123's procedure.
All Polaris 4x4's have always had cv joints on the front. The cv joint is the part with the rubber boot on it that goes through the bottom of the strut. Before you get all worked up, go look at your wheeler and you will admit that I'm right.
The procedure you described is a very condensed version of Farmr123's procedure.
#16
Greg,
I just got done (after 3 hours!)Hell of a job! Especially while leaving the Plastic on and the left wheel too. I tried doing it through the bottom like you said but did not seem "do-able" at the time. I used some quick-grips to squeeze the spring and just pulled it off the top.(quick-grips kept popping off) It was actually good that I did it that way, as now I can see how lift-kits must bolt on. The more I fiddle with my quad the more I can learn...
Will I know if I messed up the axle/CV joint just by looking? How can I tell? Plus I noticed that the seals under the struts (the ones with the zerk under the wheel) shifted a bit as I moved the whole strut and stuff around...
I just got done (after 3 hours!)Hell of a job! Especially while leaving the Plastic on and the left wheel too. I tried doing it through the bottom like you said but did not seem "do-able" at the time. I used some quick-grips to squeeze the spring and just pulled it off the top.(quick-grips kept popping off) It was actually good that I did it that way, as now I can see how lift-kits must bolt on. The more I fiddle with my quad the more I can learn...
Will I know if I messed up the axle/CV joint just by looking? How can I tell? Plus I noticed that the seals under the struts (the ones with the zerk under the wheel) shifted a bit as I moved the whole strut and stuff around...
#17
Sears has square sockets in 3/8 drive that will fit the little square on the top of the strut rod & leave room for a box wrench under it. Only a buck or two, but for the life of me I can't remember the size.
Don't worry about the seal moving in the bottom ball joint - it is their nature to do that as the joint moves.
Never even dreamed about taking the spring out from the bottom. Learn something new every day. Looks like it should work. Anything that saves time and/or work is a good idea. Leaves more time/energy for driving.
Farmr
Don't worry about the seal moving in the bottom ball joint - it is their nature to do that as the joint moves.
Never even dreamed about taking the spring out from the bottom. Learn something new every day. Looks like it should work. Anything that saves time and/or work is a good idea. Leaves more time/energy for driving.
Farmr
#18
The first time I told the mecahic at the polaris dealership about how I did it from the top, he laughed. He can install a lift kit on a Polars in 45 minuts (Both sides) When I tried it his way, I removed my lift in 40 minutes, both sides wiht out any spring compressors. You just use the weight of the bike to recompress the new spring. Live and learn I guess.
Greg
Greg
#19
So Greg,
Just where does the lift kit go on the Polaris front?
I've been considering either Progressive springs or Works struts (to replace the screen-door valving) or a lift so my tires don't hit. They only hit on a big bump, but it bothers me.
Just where does the lift kit go on the Polaris front?
I've been considering either Progressive springs or Works struts (to replace the screen-door valving) or a lift so my tires don't hit. They only hit on a big bump, but it bothers me.
#20
The lift on the front of a Polaris goes between the spring bottom and strut housing. It is a fairly simple installation. It should solve your problem. Do not go over a 1.5" lift. Anything more than that might cost you CV joints.
Greg
Greg
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