How do I fix this?
#31
Labarons shut down pretty much. There not a polaris dealer anymore. I guess they didnt pay there bills. That is were I got the scrambler in 2000. I took it to K&W Cycle because thats were i got the predator from. The only other polaris dealer around here is Andersons on telegraph.
Why not K&W?
I stayed in Mio at a local motel there.
Why not K&W?
I stayed in Mio at a local motel there.
#32
ScramaDamaDingDong, I did exactly what you said... I removed the front transfer and drive shafts from my 4x4 to lighten the machine. I never used the 4wd. I bought some pvc caps that fit right in the boots and used a radiator hose clamp to tighten them in. I packed it full of grease and now pop wheelies to no end.
#33
HOOPIE, man you gotta go get that thing back from the dealer, they are gonna charge you a fortune for something you can do for less than 100 bucks. Heres what you need, SERVICE MANUAL $25, 2 NEW BOOTS WITH GREASE $30, 4 ZIP SEALS $10, QUART of HUB FLUID $10. The Satsfaction of doing a job yourself and saving a ton of cash, PRICELESS. LOL!! But really, this is not a BIG job and its not that hard. I did mine for the first time ever and I got it done in less than 3 hours. Heres what you do.
1. Remove the Brake Caliper
2. Take the plastic Cap off the end of the hub
3. Take the big nut off the end of the shaft (Left side has Reversed Threads)
4. Pull Hub off axle
5. Take cotter pin out of lower ball joint and take the nut off
6. Break ball joint loose
7. Pull CV Joint out of Strut, Remember to keep all the bearings, races, washers, 4wd unit in order
8. CLEAN CV JOINT and the end of the axle
9. Make sure O-ring is on the end of the axle
10. Pack CV with grease
11. Slide boot over the end of the axle
12. Put CV joint back on the end of the axle (I had to use a hammer for this)
13. Put one zip seal on each end of the boot and tighten
14. Put the bearing on the end of the shaft and re-insert axle into strut.
15. Start at step 7 and work your way to step one.
16. Then fill the hub HALF FULL with fluid
It really isnt hard to do.
1. Remove the Brake Caliper
2. Take the plastic Cap off the end of the hub
3. Take the big nut off the end of the shaft (Left side has Reversed Threads)
4. Pull Hub off axle
5. Take cotter pin out of lower ball joint and take the nut off
6. Break ball joint loose
7. Pull CV Joint out of Strut, Remember to keep all the bearings, races, washers, 4wd unit in order
8. CLEAN CV JOINT and the end of the axle
9. Make sure O-ring is on the end of the axle
10. Pack CV with grease
11. Slide boot over the end of the axle
12. Put CV joint back on the end of the axle (I had to use a hammer for this)
13. Put one zip seal on each end of the boot and tighten
14. Put the bearing on the end of the shaft and re-insert axle into strut.
15. Start at step 7 and work your way to step one.
16. Then fill the hub HALF FULL with fluid
It really isnt hard to do.
#34
Originally posted by: Hoopie
Labarons shut down pretty much. There not a polaris dealer anymore. I guess they didnt pay there bills. That is were I got the scrambler in 2000. I took it to K&W Cycle because thats were i got the predator from. The only other polaris dealer around here is Andersons on telegraph.
Why not K&W?
I stayed in Mio at a local motel there.
Labarons shut down pretty much. There not a polaris dealer anymore. I guess they didnt pay there bills. That is were I got the scrambler in 2000. I took it to K&W Cycle because thats were i got the predator from. The only other polaris dealer around here is Andersons on telegraph.
Why not K&W?
I stayed in Mio at a local motel there.
K&W always charged much more for parts and service, quotes i have gotten from them.
I bought my Triton trailer there but dont like their attitude. Greenia's on M53 in Almont is a good place for service work.
Did you stay at Songbird motel in Mio? Been there, cabins are nice rooms are the pits.
Jim
#35
I stayed at the NorthStar Resort in downtown Mio. It was pretty rustic place. Old cabin type rooms attached to each other. I never been out to the Almont location. K&W is more expensive. I am just hoping the service will make up for it. I dont mind paying a little more if the service is good because in the long run it can save you more money for better service.
#38
I just got the quote back from the dealer and they wanted $530 to fix the right side. Then I pointed out to them that both sides are broken. IDIOTS! so then they said it would be roughly double then to fix it ($950). The part on the work order was the a complete drive shat kit $297 for one 600 for two. the rest is labor and shop fees.
#39
Originally posted by: Hoopie
I just got the quote back from the dealer and they wanted $530 to fix the right side. Then I pointed out to them that both sides are broken. IDIOTS! so then they said it would be roughly double then to fix it ($950). The part on the work order was the a complete drive shat kit $297 for one 600 for two. the rest is labor and shop fees.
I just got the quote back from the dealer and they wanted $530 to fix the right side. Then I pointed out to them that both sides are broken. IDIOTS! so then they said it would be roughly double then to fix it ($950). The part on the work order was the a complete drive shat kit $297 for one 600 for two. the rest is labor and shop fees.
#40
well it seems to me that if they go replacing just the cv joint then the added labor for R&R of the joint would probably add up to the difference since you have to pay the labor on the the complete shaft R&R anyway.


