Thinking of a new sp400 or Kodiak 450.
#22
Originally posted by: Backinthesaddleagain
A) You didn't answer my question regarding the single (high) range Polaris CVT transmissions. The fact that these units operate just fine without "RISKING DAMAGE" at slow speed illustrates that your assertion is incorrect.
B) I consult my owners manual all the time. In fact, I consulted my owners manual prior to taking issue with you on this point. It says nothing about "RISKING DAMAGE" by operating slowly in high range.
A) You didn't answer my question regarding the single (high) range Polaris CVT transmissions. The fact that these units operate just fine without "RISKING DAMAGE" at slow speed illustrates that your assertion is incorrect.
B) I consult my owners manual all the time. In fact, I consulted my owners manual prior to taking issue with you on this point. It says nothing about "RISKING DAMAGE" by operating slowly in high range.
jimmypsp700, is right, but its also posible to score and groove the pulleys, and that aint cheap to replace.
If you do a search, in the polaris section, for low range, youll see this topic has been discussed many times in the past, and if you choose to not believe me, then you can choose to ignore your fellow polaris owners as well.
The reason for the advice, is because the belt goes slack at idle, in gear, but the pulley continues to spin. When starting out in high (think of a bicycle, starting out in 10 th), the mechanical leverage is low, and it takes alot of power to make it move. So when you rev the motor, the spinning drive pulley, slams on to the stationary belt, and because of the increased resistance, due to the high gear ratio, theres lot of slippage and heat. But when starting out in low, the mechanical advantage, (such as a bike in 1st), is much easier for the pulley to grab the belt, and get moving, with much less slippage and heat.
Back...you can choose to do as you wish, i only wanted to inform 2 manytoys, on the differences between yami and polaris. Its posible he wasnt aware of this. On the yami, the belt never goes slack, and theres no need to be concerned about whether or not, the quad is in the proper range.. the belt wont slip.
#24
Originally posted by: hondabuster
The trannys with a single range, have a different final gearing, and seeing how the tranny does not have a low position, the question is moot. You couldnt select a low if you wanted to. As i said, on the 400, which is what we started talking about, has a high and low, and the final gearing is steeper, so youre trying to compare apples to oranges. The advice from polaris (and kawasaki), is that when running under 20, it should be in low...if the tranny has a low.
jimmypsp700, is right, but its also posible to score and groove the pulleys, and that aint cheap to replace.
If you do a search, in the polaris section, for low range, youll see this topic has been discussed many times in the past, and if you choose to not believe me, then you can choose to ignore your fellow polaris owners as well.
The reason for the advice, is because the belt goes slack at idle, in gear, but the pulley continues to spin. When starting out in high (think of a bicycle, starting out in 10 th), the mechanical leverage is low, and it takes alot of power to make it move. So when you rev the motor, the spinning drive pulley, slams on to the stationary belt, and because of the increased resistance, due to the high gear ratio, theres lot of slippage and heat. But when starting out in low, the mechanical advantage, (such as a bike in 1st), is much easier for the pulley to grab the belt, and get moving, with much less slippage and heat.
Back...you can choose to do as you wish, i only wanted to inform 2 manytoys, on the differences between yami and polaris. Its posible he wasnt aware of this. On the yami, the belt never goes slack, and theres no need to be concerned about whether or not, the quad is in the proper range.. the belt wont slip.
Originally posted by: Backinthesaddleagain
A) You didn't answer my question regarding the single (high) range Polaris CVT transmissions. The fact that these units operate just fine without "RISKING DAMAGE" at slow speed illustrates that your assertion is incorrect.
B) I consult my owners manual all the time. In fact, I consulted my owners manual prior to taking issue with you on this point. It says nothing about "RISKING DAMAGE" by operating slowly in high range.
A) You didn't answer my question regarding the single (high) range Polaris CVT transmissions. The fact that these units operate just fine without "RISKING DAMAGE" at slow speed illustrates that your assertion is incorrect.
B) I consult my owners manual all the time. In fact, I consulted my owners manual prior to taking issue with you on this point. It says nothing about "RISKING DAMAGE" by operating slowly in high range.
jimmypsp700, is right, but its also posible to score and groove the pulleys, and that aint cheap to replace.
If you do a search, in the polaris section, for low range, youll see this topic has been discussed many times in the past, and if you choose to not believe me, then you can choose to ignore your fellow polaris owners as well.
The reason for the advice, is because the belt goes slack at idle, in gear, but the pulley continues to spin. When starting out in high (think of a bicycle, starting out in 10 th), the mechanical leverage is low, and it takes alot of power to make it move. So when you rev the motor, the spinning drive pulley, slams on to the stationary belt, and because of the increased resistance, due to the high gear ratio, theres lot of slippage and heat. But when starting out in low, the mechanical advantage, (such as a bike in 1st), is much easier for the pulley to grab the belt, and get moving, with much less slippage and heat.
Back...you can choose to do as you wish, i only wanted to inform 2 manytoys, on the differences between yami and polaris. Its posible he wasnt aware of this. On the yami, the belt never goes slack, and theres no need to be concerned about whether or not, the quad is in the proper range.. the belt wont slip.
I figured you'ld give me the "different final gearing" BS.
Question: How do you know what the final gearing is in the single range tranny vs the duel range tranny? I don't know what the final drive ratios are......but I do know that my old single range Trailblazer (with smaller tires) had at least as much top speed and I think probably more. That's not a valid argument. The single range tranny has only one ratio........high........ and it's not like it's "inbetween".
The fact is.... you asserted that on Polaris machines you can't go slow in high range without "RISKING DAMAGE" to the machine. >>>>THAT<<<< is what I take issue with because it is blatantly wrong and a huge blot on any manufacturer to have that sort of harmful dis-information flying around in cyberspace.
Now it is quite obvious your doing the slippery shift shuffle to weasle out of it. The honest and honorable thing to do would be admit your statement about "RISKING DAMAGE" is wrong and retract it.
#25
Backinthesaddleagain,
Life is more enjoyable if you learn to shed the hostility, and relax.
Count the teeth on the front sproket and the back sproket, this will give the final drive ratio. Why is this answer slippery? Its just the answer. Its called physics and mechanics.
Why are you so touchy about the polaris issues? I have one of all the major jap brands, and dont become uptight when someone else points out the short falls. You learn about them, and do whats neccessary to minimize them. Were all riders here..save the hostility for the polititions.
As for the damage issue, like i said before, and ill repeat it again, ask your dealer. You obviously wont believe anything i say. Tell him you plan on pulling a trailer, going in gooy mud, and rock climbing in high, or even just simple trial riding at 5 mph....see what his reply is. Then ask a yamaha dealer those questions about a grizzly or kodiak, and see what his reply is. They will be totally different.
I stand behind what ive said, there is no need for any retraction. If you get upset with what i write...dont read it.
Life is more enjoyable if you learn to shed the hostility, and relax.
Count the teeth on the front sproket and the back sproket, this will give the final drive ratio. Why is this answer slippery? Its just the answer. Its called physics and mechanics.
Why are you so touchy about the polaris issues? I have one of all the major jap brands, and dont become uptight when someone else points out the short falls. You learn about them, and do whats neccessary to minimize them. Were all riders here..save the hostility for the polititions.
As for the damage issue, like i said before, and ill repeat it again, ask your dealer. You obviously wont believe anything i say. Tell him you plan on pulling a trailer, going in gooy mud, and rock climbing in high, or even just simple trial riding at 5 mph....see what his reply is. Then ask a yamaha dealer those questions about a grizzly or kodiak, and see what his reply is. They will be totally different.
I stand behind what ive said, there is no need for any retraction. If you get upset with what i write...dont read it.
#26
You are plainly wrong about the "RISKING DAMAGE".............yet you refuse to own up to and admit that you were wrong. An honest and honerable person would.
Slippery.
I will have no further discussions with you.
Slippery.
I will have no further discussions with you.
#27
Im sorry you feel that way. Id like to think i give fair ,balanced, and accurate opinions. I dont bash one brand over another, i just lay out the issues, and let people decide for themselves.
Ive reread what i posted...and i still stand by it.
Ive reread what i posted...and i still stand by it.
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