Do '05s have the purple Reverse Accessory Power?
#41
havent done it yet, as I was trying with the previous diagram pol800 had up (the incorrect one). Everything was working except the voltage was getting back into the sensor and making the display only show R when you were in reverse (no P for park, etc). So it seemed simple in theory, just will take some time to hide all the wires and waterproof and that kinda thing.
School's around the corner, so I don't see myself doing that for awhile. But definetly a big thanks to pol800efi for the diagram, I'll do that as soon as I get the ambition again. I am just a little leery of cutting that purple wire on my new machines.
School's around the corner, so I don't see myself doing that for awhile. But definetly a big thanks to pol800efi for the diagram, I'll do that as soon as I get the ambition again. I am just a little leery of cutting that purple wire on my new machines.
#42
I haven’t had an opportunity to try this mod yet, but plan to do it in the near future. Just a couple observations about the schematic kindly posted by pol800efi.
In theory, the diode in the purple wire between the “resistor network” and the patch wire that goes to 86 on the relay is redundant to the diode that is already in the patch wire. Not that there’s anything wrong with it being there, but as the schematic is drawn it seems to serve no purpose. Also, if you connect 30 to the hot side of the work light switch (the terminal with the red/white wire) there’s your 12v for 85 on the relay. The schematic is correct, but for practical application just jumper 85 and 30 together and patch them into red/white on the switch.
I’m thinking most of this mod can be accomplished inside the headlight pod with the exception of patching into the purple wire between the gear switch and resistor pack. Just run your (purple or blue?) patch wire from the purple gear switch/ resistor pack wire into the pod to a diode, then connect the other side of the diode to 86 on the relay (normally ground). Run a patch wire (red?) from the red/white wire on the work light switch to 30 and 85 on the relay. Then run a patch wire (blue?) from the blue wire on the work light switch to 87 on the relay.
Just make sure not to use any green, yellow or black wires or the bike could blow up! (hehehe) I’ll post my results after trying it (BOOM!) It sure was a lot easier when they just gave us a purple wire that went hot with a reverse shift. Ahhh, the good old days.
In theory, the diode in the purple wire between the “resistor network” and the patch wire that goes to 86 on the relay is redundant to the diode that is already in the patch wire. Not that there’s anything wrong with it being there, but as the schematic is drawn it seems to serve no purpose. Also, if you connect 30 to the hot side of the work light switch (the terminal with the red/white wire) there’s your 12v for 85 on the relay. The schematic is correct, but for practical application just jumper 85 and 30 together and patch them into red/white on the switch.
I’m thinking most of this mod can be accomplished inside the headlight pod with the exception of patching into the purple wire between the gear switch and resistor pack. Just run your (purple or blue?) patch wire from the purple gear switch/ resistor pack wire into the pod to a diode, then connect the other side of the diode to 86 on the relay (normally ground). Run a patch wire (red?) from the red/white wire on the work light switch to 30 and 85 on the relay. Then run a patch wire (blue?) from the blue wire on the work light switch to 87 on the relay.
Just make sure not to use any green, yellow or black wires or the bike could blow up! (hehehe) I’ll post my results after trying it (BOOM!) It sure was a lot easier when they just gave us a purple wire that went hot with a reverse shift. Ahhh, the good old days.
#43
floodrunner -
Thanks for the info. I still have not tried this mod on my machine yet. Please do keep us informed if you are successful with making the changes you have described. I also was uncertain if both diodes were necessary or not. Again, my electrical knowledge is very limited though, so I hate to question other people's methods.
Thanks for the info. I still have not tried this mod on my machine yet. Please do keep us informed if you are successful with making the changes you have described. I also was uncertain if both diodes were necessary or not. Again, my electrical knowledge is very limited though, so I hate to question other people's methods.
#44
Thanks floodrunner. I was also going to use the same 12v source for both.
I just haven't done it yet because I am very hesitant to cut that purple wire (I know I could patch it back up if it didn't work, but it's still the whole "new atv" thing, even with my older 04).
Let me know what you do when you do it, especially how you deal with cutting the purple wire. Unfortunately, as I found in my experiments, you cannot tap into it by sliding back the insulation in-line because then the 12v gets where it shouldn't and messes up your display.
Keep us posted
Ty
I just haven't done it yet because I am very hesitant to cut that purple wire (I know I could patch it back up if it didn't work, but it's still the whole "new atv" thing, even with my older 04).
Let me know what you do when you do it, especially how you deal with cutting the purple wire. Unfortunately, as I found in my experiments, you cannot tap into it by sliding back the insulation in-line because then the 12v gets where it shouldn't and messes up your display.
Keep us posted
Ty
#45
Tyler, in about an hour I’m heading up north by Lake Superior for a weekend of riding so I probably won’t get to play with this mod until next (Labor Day) weekend. But your statement about “12v gets where it shouldn’t” confuses me. If the diode is doing its job, everything above it (that’s the relay and all its connections and workings in pol800efi’s schematic) is isolated from the gear switch and resistor pack. A diode is like a one-way valve or check valve, it allows current to flow one direction but prevents it from flowing the other. If you’re getting any current to that purple wire through your relay setup something is wrong with your arrangement. Maybe you have a bad diode or the one specified isn’t capable of handling that much current.
I don’t know, those are just guesses. I’ll definitely post my results after I’ve had a chance to play with it.
I don’t know, those are just guesses. I’ll definitely post my results after I’ve had a chance to play with it.
#46
Originally posted by: floodrunner
Tyler, in about an hour I’m heading up north by Lake Superior for a weekend of riding so I probably won’t get to play with this mod until next (Labor Day) weekend. But your statement about “12v gets where it shouldn’t” confuses me. If the diode is doing its job, everything above it (that’s the relay and all its connections and workings in pol800efi’s schematic) is isolated from the gear switch and resistor pack. A diode is like a one-way valve or check valve, it allows current to flow one direction but prevents it from flowing the other. If you’re getting any current to that purple wire through your relay setup something is wrong with your arrangement. Maybe you have a bad diode or the one specified isn’t capable of handling that much current.
I don’t know, those are just guesses. I’ll definitely post my results after I’ve had a chance to play with it.
Tyler, in about an hour I’m heading up north by Lake Superior for a weekend of riding so I probably won’t get to play with this mod until next (Labor Day) weekend. But your statement about “12v gets where it shouldn’t” confuses me. If the diode is doing its job, everything above it (that’s the relay and all its connections and workings in pol800efi’s schematic) is isolated from the gear switch and resistor pack. A diode is like a one-way valve or check valve, it allows current to flow one direction but prevents it from flowing the other. If you’re getting any current to that purple wire through your relay setup something is wrong with your arrangement. Maybe you have a bad diode or the one specified isn’t capable of handling that much current.
I don’t know, those are just guesses. I’ll definitely post my results after I’ve had a chance to play with it.
Pol800efi, where did you cut into the purple reverse wire? That's the only thing I'm hesitant to do. Where did you cut it, and where did you put the work that you did (diodes, etc)?
thanks,
ty
#47
It doesn’t work. Whether you use one diode or two, big diodes or small, it doesn’t work.
My testing was done on an ’05 700 EFI. First, I wired things up according to the schematic without the second diode (the one between the gear switch and the resistor pack). This resulted in “R” being the only shift indicator that appeared on the speedo display, all other gear shift positions were blank. Then I cut the purple wire and installed the second diode according to the schematic. At first this resulted in the reappearance of all the gear shift indicators but “R” was missing. I thought, “Okay, I can live with that. If the gear shift indicator is blank that means I'm in reverse.” That was where I left things for a day because I ran out of time.
As I gave the idea some thought in my “off time” it suddenly occurred to me, without the shift indicator registering “R” I wouldn’t have AWD in reverse. The next day, wired the same, my results changed. Now the speedo display showed “N” in neutral AND reverse. All the other shift positions were correct.
I checked and checked and checked connections but everything was wired right. Yes, the work lights came on when you’d shift into reverse but no matter how I did it something was always wrong with the speedo display. Perhaps even more disturbing was the fact that application of the same modification yielded varying results. I want my mods to be stable and reliable; as much as I’d like to have automatic back-up lights this one seems to be neither.
Unless someone smarter than me can come up with an electrical mod to accomplish this I may play with a mechanical switch that would work off the shift linkage somewhere. Will post my results at if this happens but I’m not in a hurry.
My testing was done on an ’05 700 EFI. First, I wired things up according to the schematic without the second diode (the one between the gear switch and the resistor pack). This resulted in “R” being the only shift indicator that appeared on the speedo display, all other gear shift positions were blank. Then I cut the purple wire and installed the second diode according to the schematic. At first this resulted in the reappearance of all the gear shift indicators but “R” was missing. I thought, “Okay, I can live with that. If the gear shift indicator is blank that means I'm in reverse.” That was where I left things for a day because I ran out of time.
As I gave the idea some thought in my “off time” it suddenly occurred to me, without the shift indicator registering “R” I wouldn’t have AWD in reverse. The next day, wired the same, my results changed. Now the speedo display showed “N” in neutral AND reverse. All the other shift positions were correct.
I checked and checked and checked connections but everything was wired right. Yes, the work lights came on when you’d shift into reverse but no matter how I did it something was always wrong with the speedo display. Perhaps even more disturbing was the fact that application of the same modification yielded varying results. I want my mods to be stable and reliable; as much as I’d like to have automatic back-up lights this one seems to be neither.
Unless someone smarter than me can come up with an electrical mod to accomplish this I may play with a mechanical switch that would work off the shift linkage somewhere. Will post my results at if this happens but I’m not in a hurry.
#48
Thanks floodrunner. I haven't done mine yet because I was afraid of exactly what you explained.
Someone on the ATV Frontier boards has developed a mechanical switch for 04s and up that does just what you want - it's nice because it is a solid machined set up. he sells them for around 50 dollars I think?? I don't know.
Pol800efi, any tips for us?
Someone on the ATV Frontier boards has developed a mechanical switch for 04s and up that does just what you want - it's nice because it is a solid machined set up. he sells them for around 50 dollars I think?? I don't know.
Pol800efi, any tips for us?
#50
Welcome to the boards. For new questions, it's best to post a new thread.
The best service manuals are the Polaris ones at your dealer. About 50 bucks, but pays for itself the first time you use it. No way you can't justify that cost, it's an hour of labor at the dealer.
The best service manuals are the Polaris ones at your dealer. About 50 bucks, but pays for itself the first time you use it. No way you can't justify that cost, it's an hour of labor at the dealer.
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Derek Allen
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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