I've looked at this a bit more - the photos show removing the seal from the inside of the case, but show the new one being driven in from the outside. I'm assuming the reason they say separate the crankcase, is the impeller shaft prevents removal of the seal from the outside.

 

If I remember correctly you can remove and replace the seal without splitting the case.

It is uncommon for them to leak and I have never replaced the seal on the 4 stroke but it seems that I remember the other mechanics at the shop doing one on a 425. I don't remember it being a major job.

I have a 2004 400 Sportsman in my shop now that needs a stator. I will look at it tommorow to see if it does have the weep hole.

And for the 12 year old in this discussion, don't you have homework to do?

 

Hey guys, thanks for all the help and support. I'm glad that some people that actually knew what they were talking about, stepped up to the plate with some awsome recommendations. I am going to tear into the pump later this week and see what I can do. Thanks again.

 

This is a 4 stroke engine. replaced impellar and gasket and the little seal behind the impellar twice. Still leaking from weap hole. There is a spring and a keeper on the water pump shaft. It must be leaking from around the shaft behind the spring. If anyone has experience with this please let me know.

Thanks

 

Welcome! There's a tool to remove the water pump seal properly without damaging the shaft. I know others have been able to do it without it and even have videos of it IF you're willing to take the chance!But you take a chance on bending the w/p shaft which in turn is part of the oil pump shaft also and the engine would have to be split to replace it! Look here on your model under "crankcase" and shows the mechanical w/p seal. Browse The seal come off in two parts which the puller is designed for. If you try to remove and damage the shaft it will leak out the weep hole between the w/p seal and engine oil seal. You can either buy the tool at SPX and replace it yourself or have a dealer do it. (usually about 2 hrs labor) Plus you must bleed the system of all air when you install the coolant or it can overheat. OPT

 

thanks so much for the help, i will price to tool now for i have two of these bikes and intend to keep them :-)

 

what is the proper way of bleeding cooling system? Is there an after market seal available?

 

On four strokes best to jack up the machine,leave the radiator cap off while running to purge the air from the system, when the fan cycles on and off several times you usually can top off the radiator and coolant bottle and replace the cap. On the 2 strokes (350 and 400) there is a bleed screw on the head to purge any air in the system,(doesn't have to be running)then top off coolant and replace cap. Polaris doesn't make the seals,but you can try to match em up at most auto stores and see if they have an equivalent. If not you'll have to stay with oem parts. OPT