I was up elk hunting and I got a 'check engine' display on my lcd. It eventually went in to limp mode on the EFI. I messed around with it as we were 20 miles from camp.

Error 51 is 'injector 1 open load', 'injector 1 short to ground' or 'injector 1 short to battery'. Has anyone ever got this error on their '05 EFI machines ? I went through all the wiring while in the field, need to look through the service manual, but I don't think it tells what to do to troubleshoot. Everything looks good, no pinched cables, etc. where there could be a cut to cause an open or short.

Its weird, you can drive it by letting off the gas when the 'check engine' error comes on and then it usually....goes away, but will come back shortly later.

dave

 

Does the engine misfire with the check engine light on? Do you have a DVOM?

 

its really strange...it will run fine some of the time, but if you keep runing with the 'check engine' message on, it will begin to misfire and backfire....

yes I have a digital volt meter....

dave

 

Hello Elkbow. It seems to me that you have a bit of information already, but is sound like you have a transient problem. You know it is one of the injectors and you know it is either open, or shorted to ground or power. I don't have an EFI, but the first thing I would do is pull the connector from the injectors and check the resistance of the injector coil to determine if the injector is open or internally shorted. If both coils are nearly the same, then chances are the injector coils are ok. Next I'd check the two connectors that connected to the injectors and verify if the corresponding pins on each injector cable have similar resistance to ground. This test give you an idea if there are shorts or opens in the wiring/electronics. Lastly put the DVM on AC volts, reconnect the injectors, and measure each pin to ground with the engine running. The two injectors should have similar voltages if the electronics are ok. If it is a transient problem, the next thing I'd do while running the engine is start wiggling connectors and wires leading from the injectors to the ECM to verify there is no bad connection. If all above is ok, I'd replace the bad injector because it may have a transient short or open in it.
Let me know what you find.
Bryce

 

I'll get out the meter and check the things you listed. As far as wiggling cables, etc., been through all of that already. Its really strange. Here is what happened when we were driving back.....if I would cruise along, the 'check engine' display would come on, then i would let off the throttle for alittle bit, the light would go out and I could drive approximately another 30 seconds to a minute.....then the display would come back on, then i would let off the throttle again to get it to go out...i drove back 28 miles like this to our camp and it worked, pain in the butt, but it worked....

dave

 

Hello Elkbow. What I suspect is happening is that the ECM is looking at the injector current while it is running. It is finding that the injector current is either low or high. That is what is triggering the error code. The injector current can be low or high because of bad wiring, bad ECM or bad injector. Hopefully the test will help us narrow down the problem to one of the above. Also, a manual might be helpfull to tell you what the readings should be. However, we can probably compare the readings between the two injectors. I am suspecting high injector current error because it does not give an error when going slow, which corresponds to low injector on time, and low average current demand from the ECM. On the other hand when you apply throttle, it requires more fuel, more injector on, and more average current.
BryceGTX

 

Hello Elkbow. After thinking about it for a bit. It seems to me, that one difinitive way to check the injector is to swap injectors and run the quad and see if the error code switches to the other injector.
BryceGTX

 

Everytime I start mine the wrench light flashes for about 10 seconds then goes out. No performance problems, runs smooth, still has same power and all that, it's just that wrench blinks when I start it.

 

zorro, the wrench flashing is because they programmed in a maintenance mode that automatically starts the wrench flashing to say you need routine service from the dealer at 50 hours, thats generally when it is programmed in. You can look in your manual, it will tell you about it. You can turn off the 'maintenance mode' by going in to the test setup.

To clear it, put the machine in neutral, hold down the mode/reverse override button as you turn on the key, release the switch as soon as the display is activated.

Use the mode/reverse override button to toggle through the diagnostic screens. When you get to the one that has the wrench on it, it will say 'on', hold down the mode/reverse override button until it changes to 'off'. I believe that is how it turns off, you can look in your owners manual.

dave

 

I thought about that, I'm still trying to figure out how the injectors come out. I know the 800 it is easier to get out than my 700, so I will look through the service manual

dave