I know, I know, this has probably been beaten to death, and yes I did a search, but without all the desiphering, I blew out the right,front cv joint on my 95 sp 500, dealer quoted me $700.
PLEASE tell me I can do this cheaper !! first, where is the best place to buy parts ? If I ask for cv joint for '95 sp 500, they will know what all I need ? is this an unbolt old bolt on new type fix ? and do I need a manual from polaris ?
whats the ballpark pirce of these parts ?
any and all help will be greatly appreciated, as I need to fix this before deer season begins.
later Im gonna ask about more power ! but lets fix the 4x4 first !! Randy

 

I just blew the left front CV joint on my 425Xpedition. It was my fault though.I was in a worst stuck situation with a bad angle pulling with my winch.The handle bars were canted to the extreme left, I gave it too much throttle,and the rest is history.I ordered a new complete CVjoint from West Plains Motor Sports. 1-800-748-7974 and talk to Greg. They were real helpful,and it cost $199.95. I believe he said all Polaris Front CV's were the same from 1994 on with a few exceptions. Good luck

 

There are two different CV joint assemblies used on the bikes. One is the 2200960# also known as the USA joint and the 2200961# also known as the BTB joint. All dealers may not know them as the USA and BTB. Your 95 Sportsman should have the 2200960 joint in it. You need to see if the whole joint is trashed or not. If the shaft is not hurt then you can replace the outer joint only or order the parts to rebuild it. But sometimes it cheaper to buy the whole shaft assembly than to buy just the outside joint. The newer bikes, 99 on I think, use the 2200961# but not real sure when they started using it.

 

If the shaft is not damaged, just pull the axel and take it to a CV shop. They can rebuild it while you wait for $70. I live outside of tyler Texas, and I had mine rebuilt on my 98SP500 at WC Supply. I also had one rebuilt at TPS in Texarkana. Any reputable CV shop should be able to help you. You will have to remove the axel from the hub. This is not a big deal, but you do have to be sure to reassemble correctly. I would not own a bike without also have the manual to it. The polaris manuals are comprehensive, and should answer any question you have about this job.

Greg

 

agree about the manual, I've just been spoiled with these bikes. This is my second polaris, I had a '93 350l 4x4 put about 5,000 miles on it with only routine maintenance and couple of thousand easy miles on this one, also with only routine stuff.
thanks guys, I'll see what I can do here.
Randy

 

That is impossible, I read all the time about how you have to work on a Polaris every time you ride it???

Greg

 

hey greg, I tried to email you is your email address correct ?
I was pulling out a hummer sunk up to the fenders when she blew ^_^ so I have a good excuse ;d
anyone know a good cv shop in houston area ???
thanks guys....

 

UPDATE !!!!
well, Jerel, I went and saw Troy Sat.he fixed me up, went home took my uneducatted @$$ about
2 hours, really nothing to it !! appreciate the advice and help.

Gregsims, my shaft seems to be ok, what can I check out to make sure its 100% ? ?
if so can you give me a phone #/address for wc supply ? if so I'll have them build me a spare..
I'm back in business ! ! !

BTW. I was told the shafts were the same, right/left ? the left side which I inspected and changed
fluid, was left hand threads ! !
the replacement part I bought had a smaller nut/shaft end than the factory part, but still worked like a charm!!
once again, thanks guys,
Randy

 

Unless the shaft is broken, or the spline at the end of the shaft is chewed up, it is probably rebuildable. You can call information to get WC Supply's Phone number to arrange the repair, but, any reputable CV shop can rebuild it. Just make sure you go to one that repairs on-site so you don't have to wait a week.

Greg

 

Randy,
I was wondering what happened to you. I never heard from you on Saturday. I was out in the garage finishing the new A-arms for my bike and waited for awhile but once I finished them I took off to try them out. It is not very heard to change the shafts out. The new shaft should of had the castle nut and cotter pin setup. This is the new version. They no longer use the nylock nut setup anymore. The nylock nut is to hard to get the preload right on the bearings.