What does the diode do? If I wanted to put a switch inline would I put it on the wire with the diode or without?
thanks

 

Use a relay [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

the diode only lets current flow one way.

 

Why do you need a diode for the 3rd headlight mod? I am running all three lights and didn't need a diode. I have a 05 800EFI and it's like all the rest, just jumper the high and low beams.

In case you are wondering, I have a degree in Electronics.

 

i'll explain this some....first a diode....a diode is a current and voltage block....it only allows current to flow in one direction....if you put a switch in, you run a diode from the 'high' wire to the switch and the other end of the switch when closed goes to the low wire.....

when you put in a switch and a diode, it gives you the option of running low, high or both....without the switch, you have low or both....

those of you that connect your low wire directly to your high wire will have low and high on no matter if the switch is in low or high, very undesirable....as we know that low is necessary in some situations....like when you have something stacked on your racks and the high beam reflects back in your face....

i was selling the kits for this mod, but haven't been producing them lately just because i have been working on alot of other things and haven't had time....i want to switch to an Otto submersible....like the one that comes on the '05 and newer machines for the work light, but i have going to put in lighted switches so you can tell when it is on....either amber, red or green...

a relay is not needed....the relay does you no good in this situation, all a relay does is act like a fuse....if you use the right parts, then you DO NOT need a relay....

for those of you attempting this mod, use a quality rockher switch, a 2 position switch....for the diode, use an axial ceramic 50 volt 6 amp diode....use a mil-spec diode, not a cheap one....

the problems I have heard about people burning up their wiring is not using the correct rated parts or quality parts....poor job on their connections, etc.....if you do not use the right parts, you will burn up your wiring because you cause it to get hot or you can burn up your factory switch....

 

You can find a fast, easy, reliable 3 headlight mod kit here that works without switches and will allow you to run just your low beams on low and all three lights on high (unlike just a jumper wire).

 

Has anyone had any problems with the switch (on the handle bar) handling the increased current from running 2x the amps though it? I'm assuming that the high beam has at least the same or more wattage as the two low beams do.

I know the ones they put on their sleds are prone to failure. I've seen two of them fail, when disassembled they were really cheesy inside. This makes me think adding a relay to handle the higher load would be a good idea.

 

I’ve had these kits on 13 of my own Polari (Sportsmans and Rangers) since ’97 without a single handlebar switch (or dashboard switch on the Rangers) or diode failure. Combined miles? Probably about 30,000. That doesn’t include our riding buddies who have had these kits on several of their machines for almost as long, also with zero failures.

I suppose you could achieve the same result with a relay and a diode but the relay isn’t necessary and when it comes to mods I believe in the KISS philosophy (keep it simple stupid)