if its an 800 thats having that issue and the alignment is perfect make sure it is idling inder 1100 rpm, if not the rpmis too high and causes the clutch to start to enguage. Also, The dealer that says that 40% of atvs come from the factory with the alignment out, is concerning, 12 years and have hardly had one come from the factory like that. The dealer only allows the tech so long to set them up, if there was a issue with the clutching on 40% of atvs, there would be a warranty claim done on them and polaris would correct the problem. It takes time to fix at pdi, the dealer wants to p[aid by someone for the time spent on the bike and there is not a chance of getting it out of the sale price so the charge it back to polaris. it is cheaper to pay the factory line to make sure that the clutching is aligned than it is to pay the dealer to including all paper work and such, that statement by that dealer isnt even realistic, but oh well, who am I to say

later fellas and BY the way I guess believe what ur best judgement allows......

 

Yes its an 800 and i believe what your saying about the engagement because it can see it happening. I told the dealer that the clutch was not 100% disengageing , that it remained engaged about an 1/8 or so until you shut off the engine. When i first start it it will remain fully disengeged until i rev it up.....then it stays engaged that 1/8 inch. The dealer said that was normal "NORMAL" i said "HOW CAN THAT BE NORMAL" he then starts to tell me how the clutch works with the weights and whatnot , i had to stop him by telling him that i already understood the concept .I could tell there was no point in argueing with him on that subject. So anyhow......since the day i bought it its been hard to shift and since the day i bought it the idel has never been below 1150.....which infact is what i thought it was supposed to be. 1150 is the lowest.....sometimes it will go to 1200 or so.
My question to you is.....how am i supposed to lower the idle? The adjustment in the cable does nothing to make it go any lower.
What do you know about the "gearcase linkage doghouse gears". After the dealer found my clutches not to be out of align , he then went for these gears. He claimed they were "dry". So he packs the thing full of grease to the extent that when he put the cover back on the grease squeezed out all sides which i might add he did not even wipe off. It seemed like one of the deals "ill just leave this grease all over here so that customer sees that i infact did something". Whether or not greasing this area has any bareing on the hard shifting issue i dont know......but i doubt it.
Thanks for your help.

 

There is a tool that ur dealer has to turn a d shaped screw that is located on the throttle body, he should have it, if u are crative u can sometimes get a good hold of theat d shaped screw with some needle node pliers, sometimes. There was no reason for that teck to go into the gear cluster, talk about wrongful diagnostics, but its good he put the grease in ther , it is supposed to be full. all mine, I make them idle about 1080 and they are good there . good luck dude

 

My machine is a 700 so I'm not sure how it compares to the 800 but it would shift fine when the engine was off and the only time I had the shifting problem was when it was turned on. I took off the housing over the clutch and you could see it engaging with no throttle. The machine would actually creep in reverse or forward without applying throttle. It seems like it changes from one mechanic to another but the one I went to said you should actually be able to apply gas and it should take a few rpms to engage the clutch before you take off. I looked at the clutch with him and you could see the play on the roller that the belt rides on. I rode it this weekend and the shifting is very smooth now. He only had the machine for a couple hours total and he says all he replaced was the brass spacer. I too looked for an idle adjustment but I think you probably need to take it in with the efi and have that adjusted at the shop. I've been told that optimal idle speed is 1130-1150

 

I, like most people, am more than happy to deal with my own repairs. I enjoy working on my machines and would not take it to the dealer at all but some of that stuff I just haven't seen yet and I don't want to mess it up. Repairs from normal wear and tear is one thing but when it's a problem from the factory that's a whole different deal. Mine was hard shifting when I bought it at 300 miles and the other fella on this thread has had problems since day one. In your opinion, I guess we should just let Polaris off the hook and pay for the repair? I paid for mine and I'm fine with it. I wouldn't be that way though had I bought it new and it was like that from day one. As you stated, the dealer is going to get paid for the work from someone and it's probably quite a bit easier to charge the customer than it is Polaris. In addition, your customer will pay as soon as it's done. How long does it take to get reimbursed from Polaris? Don't fool yourself into thinking it's not all about the bottom line, whether it's the dealer or corporate. Look man, I know you are a Polaris tech and sticking up for the company you work for but that does not mean that customers like myself and others do not have valid points regarding these issues.

 

Look man, Im not looking for any flak, Im just trying to lay it out there for others that dont quite understand the system, I am only saying that it u have a small issue with a bike that is off warranty but low miles do deal with it with a grain of salt. Choose ur battles with the manufacturer wisely. If ur gonna rant about a 15 $ fix now, when the engine granades in a couple months, that is when u start at the battle for warranty assistance, not now on a small issue no mater who is the blame. They help u once with a small claim now, later they will tell u to stick it in ur ear, they have already helped u once off warranty.
Not looking for any other opinions on this, just giving some advice from the inside, take it and soak it up, dont bash people like myself for helping. Keep up the bull headedness and the people that know their S##t on here will stop helping those that dont know it at all.

Choose it wisely my friends



q]Originally posted by: Duckhntr

I, like most people, am more than happy to deal with my own repairs. I enjoy working on my machines and would not take it to the dealer at all but some of that stuff I just haven't seen yet and I don't want to mess it up. Repairs from normal wear and tear is one thing but when it's a problem from the factory that's a whole different deal. Mine was hard shifting when I bought it at 300 miles and the other fella on this thread has had problems since day one. In your opinion, I guess we should just let Polaris off the hook and pay for the repair? I paid for mine and I'm fine with it. I wouldn't be that way though had I bought it new and it was like that from day one. As you stated, the dealer is going to get paid for the work from someone and it's probably quite a bit easier to charge the customer than it is Polaris. In addition, your customer will pay as soon as it's done. How long does it take to get reimbursed from Polaris? Don't fool yourself into thinking it's not all about the bottom line, whether it's the dealer or corporate. Look man, I know you are a Polaris tech and sticking up for the company you work for but that does not mean that customers like myself and others do not have valid points regarding these issues.[/quote]

 

I myself appreciate everyones input whether i agree with it or not.

 

my 700 shifts like crap. sometimes you cant find N without going into L and sometimes you really have to jerk it into H.
ive looked into it and it seems to be a common problem, even the dealer says so. he says there is a plastic gear or something i can replace. ill wait till it breaks and inspect.

 

If it had the problem from the beginning you should have taken it in under warranty.
My 700 shifted hard too when new but wore in and is ok now.

Jim