Wondering if i could use any antifreeze or if i have to use the polaris stuff. When i run my 05 sp 700 the fan kicks on after about 5 minutes of light riding... And i noticed i was low on antifreeze. Any other ideas to why it kicks on would be helpful. THANKS

 

use a 50/50 mix of reg antifreeze. you can buy it already premixed.

 

I am sure there are people stupid enough to pay the price for the Polaris antifreeze but I am not one of them.

The only Polaris fluid you need to buy is the oil for the front diff on the later models.

Everything else can be replaced with better products at a lower cost.

 

I actually installed a temp gauge [mechanical type] on mine as I am in tropics and dont want it to overheat, and it seems fan t/stat cuts in at only 140 F, ie with a huge margin, so that might explain why yours comes on after 5 mins, especially if at idle or slow moving

not sure if that is by design or setpoint has drifted

I would also assume the whole cooling system is "overdesigned" as when I bought mine the rad was totally blocked off with dried mud from many years neglect but it was still working OK

 

I talked with a few experts in the field some of them are well liked here on the site like Quadavator and they said use any coolant that is silicate free. Dexcool was mentioned my dealer who is a family friend says to use the Honda brand coolant or any other off the shelf brand at any dealer. He said go with the least expensive stuff as there are all the same. Honda, Yamaha.... I'm opting to go the performance coolant route.

 

yep dried mud and a plugged rad is a bad combo for heat issuses. make sure you clean your rad good or find some good water to clean off in. my fan runs alot as well its by design i take it.

 

Do not use regular antifreeze, use silicate free antifreeze and mix it with distilled water 50/50.

 

I was sort of amazed to watch the video of polaris half submerged in water and still going

apart from all the other "electrical" issues, the fan must be a waterproof design?? and must also be able to be stalled for a period of time without burn out

I have been very wary of crossing creeks on the beach more than say 9 inches in depth [especially if tide is coming in] so this gives me new confidence, but seeing it is salt water and the polaris is rusting before my eyes I guess I might avoid getting too deep

I have so much smelly fish oil sprayed all over it that I am afraid the crocs will start to follow me up the beach thinking I'm a big fish

 

Note: i strongly recommend against riding in deep saltwater-- the electrical connections will corrode and eventually a new wiring harness will be needed.

The system is DC.. .so any electrical component will work underwater, including the fan. However, the fan won't come on underwater unless you are in water over 150*F--- the mud hole/water hole will cool the sensor and engine block very quickly. The winch operates well underwater (experience).

If you are riding in mud or water that is deeper than your floorboards, you will wear out some mechanical seals in the engine. This happens because the vented cap on the radiator reservoir allows mud to seep into the cooling system. The mechanical seal allows the system to start leaking and is an indication that the system needs flushing. I'm not sure if other manufacturers do this, but if they do not have a vented cap, their system won't work correctly. If they do not have a mech seal, it will allow mud to circulate through the cooling system for months/years---

The 450/500 engine requires a special tool to remove the mechanical seal, but the seal shoudl cost ~$50. The 600/700/800 mechanical seal does not requires any special tools and is very easy to change.

 

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duffus is partly right, the vent cap will let in a small amount of sediment into the cooking system. The main reason for water pump seals to fail however is the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump. When you run through mud like any serious quadder does the muddy water splashes through the weep hole directly to the mechanical seal. It doesn't take long for the seal to fail. A couple of years ago I wrote an article on the forum on how to fix both of these issues, if anybody is interested I'll see if I can find it and repost.</FONT>