Is there any problems with this system in terms of excessive chain wear or tranny problems. I'm still trying to decide between Xplorer 400 and Kodiak 400. I rode a Xplorer and it had awesome power. The Kodiak wasn't bad. The Xplorer is about $800 less than Kodiak. Anyone?

 

Actually the Concentric Drive was developed by Polaris to decrease those effects. Theoretically, by aligning the pivot point of the swingarm and the countershaft there is less strain on the parts. It is by no means though indestructable, but definately a better systen than on the Kodiak.

 

You are facing a difficult decision there. The Xplorer is faster but the Kodiak will be a little bit more reliable.

From my experience with concentric drive one needs to be aware of two things.

#1. The concentric drive is not truely concentric. If you try to keep a tight chain, you will absolutely drive yourself crazy as it cannot be done. AS your suspension bottoms out the chain will ratchet your rear axle slightly and loosen the chain. If you keep tightening the chain the only thing that you will do is stretch the chain.

The heavier the rider the more the axle ratcheting. So tighten the chain, let it loosen up to where it wants to be and leave it there.

#2. Your results will vary: With enough mud riding, chains and sprockets will last 2000 miles before needing replacement. Some more some less but that is another expense.

And in conclusion be prepared for carburetor rebuilding after 2,000 miles.

The vibration of the 400 Fuji will cause inlet needles to wear out, the needle jet will wear as will the pilot jet. For some unknown reason the choke circuit on these carbs likes to stick and make the carb run rich, at this point fuel mileage will drop from 19+ down to 11 or less.

Sooner or later every 400 Fuji runs rich intermittently.

But... performance has it's price. It is great but requires more maintenance.

 

I have a 99 Xplorer with close to 3600 miles on it. The concentric chain drive has been really good to me, but it does have it's quirks.

1. lube it and lube it often. I don't deep mud, mostly trail riding/agressive trail riding/cruising/and some snow riding. I went through 3 cans of $7 chain lube, but my chain and sprockets are still pretty good. I expect 5000 miles from them at the rate they are going.

2. Tension adjustments - a little loose is better than a little tight. If you overtighten it, you will either work the adjustment loose (from what I hear if you do this too many times it will not stay tight), stretch the chain prematurely, or, in severe cases, break either the chain or even the case housing or shaft. I think this happens when there is zero slack in the chain & something builds up on the sprocket or wedges between the chain & sprocket. If there isn't at least a little slack, something will have to give.

3. Adhuster pinch bolts. These need to be tight. The Polaris spec should be considered a minimum. When I tighten mine, I oil the threads on the bolts, and make sure it is torqued to spec. After tightening one side, the other side seems to loosen a little, so you have to tighten both bolts twice to get it right. If these bolts are too loose, you will not get your chain adjustment to hold.

I don't consider any of these things a problem for me anyway, just quirks you should be aware of.

I have pulled logs right with a Grizzly with mine, and never broke a chain. I only did it a couple days, but if you ever pulled with a Grizz, you will know what I mean. Those things have grunt!