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Need Help..SP 500 belt won't disengage.bike keeps moving

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  #11  
Old 03-05-2015, 07:25 PM
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Default 2001 polaris sportsman 500 Ho drive clutch doesn't seem to disengage all the way

I need to know if anyone has had this problem. I just purchased this used and the person I bought from put a new drive clutch in it but when I took it for a ride and didn't stop very well brakes on and still kept creeping forward so the idle is correct and it has the correct belt. But I have noticed the on the clutch face where the bolt goes through clutch it has like a 1/4 " gap it seems like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. So cause of that when I put the belt on it the clutch is tight against the belt so when I start it and in idle the drive clutch turns and the belt and the secondary clutch as well. So does the clutch need shimed out in side
 
  #12  
Old 03-05-2015, 07:40 PM
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Common problem especially on the 2001-2002 models or it seemed that way to me. Worked on these two models more than any other on creeping,hard shifting.Front and rear clutch alignment, worn fiber washer and metal washer in front of the one way clutch,that is if the clutch he replaced wasn't the front clutch.Usually the belt creeps over and touches the inner sheath of the front clutch which keeps tension on the rear clutch. This is the cause of most creeping. Look over these posts and see if what they did can help you on your problem.2002 500 Sportsman belt alignment - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community
 
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:58 PM
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Thanks for the response and I had stated that it was the drive clutch that was replaced which is the front clutch and on that clutch is the space its a 1/4" space which is the shaft that goes through the clutch where the bolt goes through the space is between the clutch face and the washer behind the bolt head
 
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Old 03-07-2015, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by seanrocks
Thanks for the response and I had stated that it was the drive clutch that was replaced which is the front clutch and on that clutch is the space its a 1/4" space which is the shaft that goes through the clutch where the bolt goes through the space is between the clutch face and the washer behind the bolt head
Understand,but some clutches will not retract all the way back while under a load also,but shouldn't affect the belt. Just pull the belt off and it may retract all the way back when you give it throttle,then let it idle. Look at the position of the belt on both clutches. If the one way is working ok in the new clutch ,most of the time you need to shim out the rear clutch so the belt will ride straight and not "walk" over and touch the inner sheath of the front clutch. It should ride in the center of the one way,rear clutch should be still or barely turn while at and idle if adjusted right. This usually stops creeping along with hard to change gear position. Plus you can check for any separated motor mounts at the front of the engine,top right hand side and even rear motor mounts.These can affect clutch alignment also. Simple crow bar test on the motor mounts and you can tell. Just get three washers at a local hardware store and start out with one at a time behind the rear clutch.Item #2.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse (.906x 1.38x .060) Plus to be on the safe side you can get a couple washers in case the rear clutch needs to be shimmed inside(item 15 or 16)
 
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Understand,but some clutches will not retract all the way back while under a load also,but shouldn't affect the belt. Just pull the belt off and it may retract all the way back when you give it throttle,then let it idle. Look at the position of the belt on both clutches. If the one way is working ok in the new clutch ,most of the time you need to shim out the rear clutch so the belt will ride straight and not "walk" over and touch the inner sheath of the front clutch. It should ride in the center of the one way,rear clutch should be still or barely turn while at and idle if adjusted right. This usually stops creeping along with hard to change gear position. Plus you can check for any separated motor mounts at the front of the engine,top right hand side and even rear motor mounts.These can affect clutch alignment also. Simple crow bar test on the motor mounts and you can tell. Just get three washers at a local hardware store and start out with one at a time behind the rear clutch.Item #2.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse (.906x 1.38x .060) Plus to be on the safe side you can get a couple washers in case the rear clutch needs to be shimmed inside(item 15 or 16)
My 01 SP 500 has started creeping again after fixing it 5 months ago. Right away I put another .030 washer behind the rear clutch. It looked good at first, but once I put it back together it started creeping again. I see above you mentioned inner washers on the rear clutch (15 & 16). Are these wear items? I haven't disassembled the rear clutch yet. I need to check motor mounts as well.

My original fix 8 months ago was this, I fixed it by replacing the two wear washers in the front clutch and spacing out the rear clutch .050.
 
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:40 AM
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Check the motor mounts as this can cause creeping plus check the clearance between the one way and the inner sheath. If it's over .020 the belt can simply track over and touch the inner sheath.This the problem I had with brass washer wear on the one way bearing.Again 2001,2002 models seemed to have the most problems on creeping,most caused by the one way.Read this post from a member and see if it helps.https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...-creeping.html
 
  #17  
Old 11-25-2016, 08:46 PM
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Pulled the clutch apart and the new brass washer was severely worn. I have a new brass washer, but I think I'll be going to napa tomorrow and getting some steel washers. Motor mounts good. How many spacers on the rear pulley is too much?
 
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Old 11-25-2016, 08:58 PM
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The spacer, 5131646, is badly worn where there brass washer sits. I may get a new one while its apart.
 
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:13 AM
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Yes the spacer or cup will have wear rings from the brass washer. Usually normal wear unless really ground down. If you want to replace it you check out who has the best price on a new one.5131646 Polaris | eBay Again read the last post on this to give you an idea on the steel washer(s) for the one way and rear clutch shimming if needed to align the clutches and belt.https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...ml#post3252651
 
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:42 AM
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Ok, I got her fixed again. For starters, when I initially fixed the creep, I used a steel washer in place of the brass and I also spaced out the rear pulley. That all worked great for about 5 hours, then the creep returned.

This time when I took the clutch apart there was a lot of metal debris and the spacer cup was badly worn. I ordered a new spacer and a new brass washer. Initially I put another steel washer with the new spacer. I assembled and fired up the machine. All was good, but I could hear friction and after a few minutes of idling the clutch started creeping again.

The steel washer was eating up the spacer again. Long story short I put the brass washer back in and all is good. Use the brass washer, not a steel. The brass is designed to wear and not cause other problems.
 


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