Step 8 says to separate the sheaves and force the belt down into the sheaves. I tried to do that, but I couldn't get it to budge.

I find it hard to imagine the spring behind the inner sheave is THAT strong, but I wasn't going to force it too hard knowing I could just unbolt the drive clutch (again). So that's what I ended doing after all.

BTW - this was to exchange the 14g rollers for some 12g. We already tried taking two 14g rollers out which resulted in a substantial increase in off the line speed, but lost almost 10mph top speed.

Doing the math:

Original total weight was 112g (8x14) / Yellow

Took two 14g rollers out for a total weight of 84g. Super acceleration!

Now we got 8x12 for a total of 96g. (Red) Better all around (IMHO)

On a final note - be careful if you attemp this mod. The rollers must go in a certain way. There is a side of the roller that faces the 'drive' portion of the roller holder. 'Just any ol way' might cause problems.

Another mod was some bar risers. My wife is 5'10" and the bars were too low when she would stand, so had to fab some extensions for where the 'cockpit' srews on and tufloks go. Plenty of cable and wire length, so all went well. Added 1 and 3/4" height.

 

Hello???

Anybody out there managed to get the belt off by the method described???

Anyone?

 

I just pulled the belt out of the secondary clutch and just rolled the primary and secondary clutches clockwise and worked the belt off the secondary like that. Pretty easy.

I like the 12g rollers better myslef with my 25" mudlites.

 

There are two threaded holes in the driven clutch, you can install bolts in those holes to spread the clutch and remove the belt....

 

Thanks gents.

Tennessee - that's just too easy <grin>. I wouldn't expect there to be that much "slop" though or the belt could possibly jump out on it's own. Kind of like having a chain too loose...

 

hi i have a trailboss and for it they want you to roll it over the driven clutch and turn the clutch(driven) and it should come off