<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: ftwflh

Stay with the stock size of tires.For better handling go with a set of WORKS or FOX front struts.

For more info on how the PVT work drop me a pm and I will get you to a web site where most of us are really good at clutching.</end quote></div>

I think I am going to pull the stocks-on-steelies and save them for if we ever get some snow. I hear the 489's are OK for that.

I'm at 13/36 stock gearing and want new tires & rims.
Probably something from the Razr line, Holeshot line or Turf Tamer line.
On good rims, maybe beadlocks, and maybe 6 ply or something...

I should get a good handling improvement from just going to a good tire, and I figured if I went from the 23/22 stock setup to a 21/20 setup I should also gain a little lower effective gearing and also lower the stance of the quad an inch... at the price of loosing an inch of clearance.

I gotta find that formula on gearing with tires, sprockets, etc...

I figure Fox or Works front struts are in order to go with the rear at some point too, along with a steering dampner/stabilizer if I decide to make this "my" primary trail machine.

I will be sending that PM... thanks...

 

This thread gave me such a headache I had to crack open a bottle of whiskey. [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img] I think I strained something. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Without EBS you can, uh, um, "ride the throttle?", whatever you call it to have the clutch engaged, like you have been. Is there a name for doing that? Personally I hated doing it as I always ended up accelerating downhill, when I wanted to slow down. It you ride where there aren't any hills it's less of an issue, but I'm used to letting it downshift <u>whenever</u> I let off of it. 10 years ago I think the Polaris EBS kit was $300 from my dealer. I don't remember what I paid them to install it, but it's very effective.

Whatever the gear ratio of the pulleys is, you're stuck with it on a shaft-drive, but as we discussed there are things you can do on your chain drive. Keeping the same drive sprocket and dropping a size on the driven sprocket will probably get what you want from stock tires. Keeping the same sprocket with smaller tires would do the same thing. I've only slept a few hours this week so I might be getting confused, but I think I got it right. This is so hard for my non-mechanic brain to deal with, but somebody has to help you, right?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: sjbr549

not sure if the sport has a low range. if it does when you go down hill and it starts to freewheel just blip the throttle to bring the rpm's back up and you'll have some engine braking(poor boy engine braking). i put Dougals .190 rims on mine it made a BIG diffrence. if you want to help the performance check with rick ritter at rittercycles.com. the stage 1 kit will wake up your 400 quite abit and the best price going for what you get.</end quote></div>

No... it doesn't have low range... which could be nice at times. I bet only the sportsman shaft drives have that and it wouldn't be something that could be done. Maybe if a guy could find an Xplorer parts machine, maybe a trans swap could be done if I wanted low range that bad. It's something to keep in mind.

I'm much more satisfied with the braking performance of the standard Polaris than any other belt drive I've owned/experienced. It seems to stay engaged pretty well sometimes. I do the throttle blip now to try to keep the belt engaged when it's not and try to use the engine and brakes together. But either I don't have it mastered or the throttle blip doesn't always work. I have trouble judging when it's going to release and can't always get it hooked back up either.

Like I said in another thread... some of the other mod sources have sweeter "looking" pipes. But in the end, for some reason I feel much more comfortable with RcR, even though I have no logic behind it to justify it.

I've been around here a long time, and maybe I have missed something in my absence... but where is Rick these days anyways? He used to come here himself and talk it up with us. Talking with the Mod-Shop guys would be a real good way for me to "map a path" in what I do and don't want to do to this quad.

I bet Rick would think my rare find was cool anyways.

 

I don't know if the new 489s are as good as the old Titans, but I always thought they were a great dirt tire, beter than a lot of aftermarket knobbys, plus they handle mud and snow pretty good for a stock, sporty tire. The ***** are lined up like a paddle with holes in it. Not a real mud paddle but they might surprise you. I have no idea what they'll do in sand dunes because I've never tried it. Going from 22" to 20" rear tires without any gear changes will give you 91% of your current top speed. Whatever it is now, knock off 9% and that's all you get. If you can live with that, go for it, but I wouldn't. It would be about like having a 344cc engine instead of a 378. If it does 50mph now it will do 45.5 with 20" tires.

 

Mine has the original 1999 model tires on it.

Great all-around tire... ok sport tire... just a little rolly and just a little grabby when you are acting a fool... I like them until I go to corner HARD, slide HARD, cut a 180 or do a dougnut.

A loss of top speed won't hurt this quad any really. Judging from my limited high speed ride time ONLY, I'd have to say it's good for at least 70 mph without ever having certainly topped it out.

I've ran it down pavement at low PSI from a rolling start of say 10mph against a Warrior, which is generally accepted to go 65 mph. It was soooo not close after a few feet that I slowed down after a ways because the Warrior kept loosing ground. That could be skewed a little by such rapid acceleration from 10 to 60+ and my realization that the Warrior wasn't making a quick comeback... letting up too soon. But it's gotta be good for at least 70 mph I still say...

Anyways, I'm thinking in terms of gaining low end and stability "while I'm at it" when changing tires... at the price of loosing an inch of clearance... It's not that often I'm running in the upper tier of the speed range.

I know some parts from RcR or wherever could give me the low end while keeping the clearance and probably give me a tad on top speed too though.

 

the polaris clutch system is very tuneable. like ftw said the annen clutch book is a great way to understand on how it works. by changing gearing or clutching will change where it pulls the best (fastest,getting there quickest) and will depend on what you want. the clutches are mostly for where and how the shift out and back shift works. just my .02

 

Aaens Clutch Tuning handbook - Got to be the BIBLE of clutch tuning, I been riding sleds over 40yrs and never -not even trial and error has taught me as much as that book. Clutching is a real tricky thing and if your serious about learning whats what the book is a "MUST HAVE"-- I got to give you credit JUMBO - GOOD JOB at explaining the basics, better job then I could do.