I noticed a pop or clunk when I turn the bars back and forth on the Sportsman. It will do it even when stopped and doesn't seem to be the tie rod ends. The ATV only has about 150 miles on it so I hope the lower bearing isn't worn out but that seems to be where the play is.

I put my hand on the castle nut on the bottom of the shaft and could feel the pop the most there. It didn't feel like it was moving but I could feel the noise. There was grease on my hand after removing it from the nut. Is there a zerk fitting down there? Also how tight should the castle nut be? I don't have a service manual for a 2007 but I do have one for a 2005 400/500. It says to hand tighten the nut. I also have a manual for a 2008 sportsman 500 and that one doesn't even show a castle nut on the bottom.

Anyone have any experience with this and can shed some light on what might be loose?

 

just a guess but i wouldnt think it would be overly tight as to put alot of pressure causing hard steering or wearing ut parts. imo.

 

I have just developed the similar symptoms on my 2002 sp700. My tie rods are in shipshape. For me, it happens when my bars are centered and I turn them right. You can sit them there on that threshold and go back and forth ~1/8" and get a consistent pop. Anywhere else through the entire range of motion is fine. Anybody have any ideas?

 

If balljoints getting worn and loose(jack up,remove a-arm,check if balljoint shaft is fairly stiff or very loose) If loose REPLACE before gets worse. This can be on source of popping noise. Another I've noticed is cv wear,can cause popping when turning. When tuning sharp right especially on rear end, the right rear cv plunges inward,left cv stretches out,usually makes noise at plunging joint. Same thing when extreme left turns,right inboard plunging joint rides out towards end of travel and has more slack for bearings to clack in channel. If you notice that if you WEIGH down rear rack with bag of sand or feed,suspension compressed and less noise usually noticed when turning either way. Wheel bearings can be some source of noise,but have found noise even on fairly new machines. Less noisy when bearings are deep in plunging joints and sound seems to radiate more when are extended out. Also NEW balljoints are pre greased,dont particually like. Also dont over tighten balljoint nut,can cause stress.

 

Thanks for the tips. It is definately not the ball joints. I only have 150 miles on this atv. They were nice and tight when I changed the boot I'm convinced it's the bearing at the bottom of the steering shaft which is unfortunate for a nearly new machine with this few miles on it.

At least it's got a replaceable bearing unlike the 08's. From what I've seen in order to get a new bearing for the shaft you have to buy the entire steering shaft as it's all one unit now. A bearing for mine is $21.

 

I got mine figured out. My right-side-rear bushing in my a-arm was destroyed which caused the shaft inside to bend. Took it a part, beat out the shaft, straightened it, put in new bushings and now everything is fine.

 

I traced it down to the bearing in the bottom of the steering shaft. I used a stethescope and it's pretty obvious that's where the noise is coming from. $28 for a new bearing and bushings and it should hopefully be good as new. I'll find out more this weekend when I tear it apart and my parts come in.

 

Replaced the bearing and sure enough it was bad. The "sealed" bearing had leaked grease all over.

I also tightened it a little tighter than hand tight. The only thing that nut does is secure the steering shaft to the center part of the bearing. The steering was actually a little loose until I turned it tighter.