2005 Ranger 4X4 340 hours on the meter.
Bought used with shift cable separated at rear ball joint.
New cable purchased and cannot get adjusted properlly. Max. adjustment in one direction gives me (maybe) high gear but no reverse. Max adjustment in the other direction gives me reverse but no high gear. Both reverse and high gear accessible if lever moved manually. What gives?
Is this a transmission problem, shift cable adjustment problem, PVT belt problem or???
Any experiences or suggestions appreciated.
Thanks for reading and especially for help and extra specially for solution.
Sam Fox
Dead center Alabama

 

Check slack on shift arm in neutral.If has quite a bit could be reason cant adjust cable.Possible internal wear on shift drum,forks,etc or right behind plate that shift lever is on,possible internal shift gear wear there also. Manual highly recommended as there are index marks to align,plus will pay for itself if doing your own work! Good luck

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]Dear old tech;
Thanks. The shift lever has 1 1/2 in. travel, measured at the cable-connect hole. Seems excessive, and if corrected to zero would account for adjustment problem.
Also; when high gear is selected, the bell crank points horizontally straight toward rear of machine. Does this sound correct?
Neutral is more-or-less straight down and the play is primaritly toward the rear; moving forward about 10-15 degrees from straight down selects reverse. Does this sound correct?
I have a fairly large Polaris dealer about ten miles away and the tech/parts guy seems reasonably knowledgeable.
Have downloaded (at a nominal price) what purports to be the Polaris OEM Service Manual. It seems fairly complete and detailed in the transmission-rebuild section.
Is there such a thing as a "transmission rebuild kit" for this beastie? Best Source? Otherwise just check for obvious wear; e.g. rounding of gear teeth or missing teeth, excessive wear/play in the parts, etc.?
I'm a fairly good mechanic (started out replacing babbit bearings on flathead plymouth sixes etc. at age sixteen, some 54 years ago) but my transmission experience is limited to automotive -- shift forks and shafts, not chain drives -- but I think I can handle this rebuild. Just have to clean off my work bench.
Any more help or suggestions?
Sam Fox
Old codger and coyote chaser in central Alabama.

 

Sounds like you got your bases covered! Excess travel usually shows up at rear of shift lever which is why hi range hard to get into or grinds. No trans rebuild kit available just inspect all parts for wear. usual items are shift forks,shiny/worn engagement dogs on gears,PLUS always replace silent chain and circlips. Good luck

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
Old Tech;
Guru of all that is Polaris; Savior of the lost and confused; this time I've gone and done it.

FIRST PROBLEM:
Need the "Drive Clutch Puller Tool", PN 2870506. Appears to be replaceable with the proper bolt, but don't have the dimensions. Probably needs to be Frade 5 or better??
From indentations on my finger when reaching into the hole, it seems to be SAE Fine threads and not LH threaded, but can't be sure. Best SWAG is it's 3/4 in. Any help here?

SECOND (and very embarrassing) PROBLEM:
Lacking the proper tool, I tried removing the drive clutch with a standard puller. Probably not surprising to you, I cracked the outer magnesium cover, so now I suspect I need the entire drive clutch assembly, as Polaris parts manual doesn't list the outer cover as a separate replaceable item. Because the entire assembly is balanced as a unit?
Best price I found is on Babbitt's at $330. They haven't yet responded to my query whether their unit will fit my VIN. They show the part as SKU 1321976.

FIRST SOLUTION: Can you advise on the acquisition/manufacture of the drive clutch puller? Obviously still need to get the old one out.

SECOND SOLUTION: Can you advise on acquisition of either the outer cover or the entire clutch assembly?

VERY embarrassed in mid Alabama
Sam Fox

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

 

Sorry about your problems! can buy aftermarket puller for about 35 bucks,BUT some members have used bolts out of gear pullers,found correct size at hardware stores,etc, I cant obtain partial clutches,but can try e-bay or some other members may be able to help out if they have spare parts! YOU AREN"T the first one to do this so dont be hard on yourself!! JUST OBTAIN PULLER FIRST, and check around for clutch parts! Some area dealers MAY have some bits and pieces they can sell you also, if have been in business long enough! I've got several boxes of junk parts that I help our customers out with! No sense in buying complete clutch if you just check around! HOPEFULLY you will hear quick from other members!!!!!! Good luck PS if havent already done so PLEASE obtain a manual,WILL pay for itself on first job and then some!

 

Old Tech;
Thanks. I have the OEM service manual in PDF format and can get to the OEM parts manual through Internet. The puller I shall continue to pursue--FIRST.

The clutch assemblies I have priced range from $333 to $400 +, and they all are without the clutch spring and weights (the same as what you get through Polaris). The question I have is, if I get one of these expensive beatties, do I reuse the weights from the old unit (manual says don't do this) or buy new from Polaris?

If the latter, how do I guess what weight to buy? Match the ones coming out of the old unit or what? A new spring is the obvious solution to that part. As a rather expensive alternative, I could buy the new unit and use just the outer cover on my old unit.

I'll keep checking here to see if some other of our members will offer something better. Sure hate to pay $300-400 for just the cover.

Sam

 

Just transfer spring and weights over to replacement clutch if weights not worn! NOT a bad idea to replace the 6 clutch buttons though! Dont give up hope on the other members just yet!! SORRY,forgot that if you HAVE TO buy a new clutch,should come with buttons!! Just have to replace spring and weights,fairly easy to do!

 

Old Tech;
You were almost right. Removed cover behind bell crank and WOW! Just a ball of rust. Gasket apparently failed and water got into the cavity. Semi-circular gear that bell crank rod fits into and splined fitting on end of bell crank toatlly rusted and splines smoothed out. This explains why the bell crank rotated freely without selecting any gear.

Ordered semi-circular gear, bell crank shaft (shift shaft?), lockout gear (teeth badly worn) and main shift gear behind lockout gear (the one the semi-circular gear meshes with). This should fix shifting problem, as soon as parts come in and I get it all timed properly and lubed up.

As to the primary clutch, my new old friend at Polaris dealer loaned me the puller and had the cover in his "junk box" and let me have it for $20.

Fits perfectly and beats heck out of $300-400 for a new drive clutch assembly. New belt and buttoned up.

Think this should solve the problem(s). Still need to drain/refill transmission and check everything out.

Thanks a bunch for all your help. Probably still be scratching my head without you.

Thanks again,
Sam