2003 Sportsman 90 -- No power at all
#11
Without going into a lot of work JUST hook up jumper cable to starter,red to starter lead,ground to kickstarter shaft or battery. You will now right then if starter bad! Item #19 is the inter lock switch and can be replaced.
#12
Update:
I jumpered the starter and it turned over the engine pretty well.
So, it looks like the starter is at least functional. The next question is why won't it turn over using the switch? What wires do I need to probe to find the problem? Should I remove the start/run harness and test those wires for conductivity? If I test the relay, what values should I read on the pins?
Problem #2, which is the problem reported by the original owner: I have no spark. Once I get the starter switch problem fixed, where should I start looking for the no spark condition? I know on my PWC there are specific ohm readings for the spark plug boot, stator wires, and CDI wires. Does anyone have those specs?
Thanks for all the help so far. I'm sure I'll get this nailed down eventually.
KJ
I jumpered the starter and it turned over the engine pretty well.
So, it looks like the starter is at least functional. The next question is why won't it turn over using the switch? What wires do I need to probe to find the problem? Should I remove the start/run harness and test those wires for conductivity? If I test the relay, what values should I read on the pins?
Problem #2, which is the problem reported by the original owner: I have no spark. Once I get the starter switch problem fixed, where should I start looking for the no spark condition? I know on my PWC there are specific ohm readings for the spark plug boot, stator wires, and CDI wires. Does anyone have those specs?
Thanks for all the help so far. I'm sure I'll get this nailed down eventually.
KJ
#13
BUMP.........
So does anyone have suggestions on tracking down the start button problem?
No spark condition......What are the most common causes?
Stator?
CDI?
Coil?
So does anyone have suggestions on tracking down the start button problem?
No spark condition......What are the most common causes?
Stator?
CDI?
Coil?
#14
I went through the same problems with a 2003 that I just bought.
It was not firing. I "wiggled" the wire going into the brake lever and all of a sudden I had fire.
If I turn the key on, switch on handle bar on, kill switch pluged in and kick it off it starts every time.
I can pull the brake lever and it will die.
I can wiggle the wire again and it starts. If it is running and I cut it off, it will start back up with the starter.
I'm getting read to replace the #19 wire/plunger and this should solve my problem and maybe yours also.
It was not firing. I "wiggled" the wire going into the brake lever and all of a sudden I had fire.
If I turn the key on, switch on handle bar on, kill switch pluged in and kick it off it starts every time.
I can pull the brake lever and it will die.
I can wiggle the wire again and it starts. If it is running and I cut it off, it will start back up with the starter.
I'm getting read to replace the #19 wire/plunger and this should solve my problem and maybe yours also.
#15
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Outdoorextraordinare
I went through the same problems with a 2003 that I just bought.
It was not firing. I "wiggled" the wire going into the brake lever and all of a sudden I had fire.
If I turn the key on, switch on handle bar on, kill switch pluged in and kick it off it starts every time.
I can pull the brake lever and it will die.
I can wiggle the wire again and it starts. If it is running and I cut it off, it will start back up with the starter.
I'm getting read to replace the #19 wire/plunger and this should solve my problem and maybe yours also.</end quote></div>
Hmm, that's a similar direction in which OldPolarisTech has been pointing me. When I pull my brake lever there is a spot about in the middle where I get the brake light to come on but before or beyond that there is no light. So, I've known the switch was quirky. Now that I think of it, I'm not sure that I was pulling the lever when I jumpered the starter.
I have a new kick start on order but I'm not sure when that will arrive (local shop). So, I'll have to rely on the electric starter until I get that part.
Obviously my plunger and wire are bad so they will need replaced no matter what. Maybe I'll pull that wire from the brake assembly and twist the two poles together. I realize that will make the brake light on constantly when the key is on, but that may light up the spark circuit.
Thanks for the info and I'll work on tracking that down.
KJ
I went through the same problems with a 2003 that I just bought.
It was not firing. I "wiggled" the wire going into the brake lever and all of a sudden I had fire.
If I turn the key on, switch on handle bar on, kill switch pluged in and kick it off it starts every time.
I can pull the brake lever and it will die.
I can wiggle the wire again and it starts. If it is running and I cut it off, it will start back up with the starter.
I'm getting read to replace the #19 wire/plunger and this should solve my problem and maybe yours also.</end quote></div>
Hmm, that's a similar direction in which OldPolarisTech has been pointing me. When I pull my brake lever there is a spot about in the middle where I get the brake light to come on but before or beyond that there is no light. So, I've known the switch was quirky. Now that I think of it, I'm not sure that I was pulling the lever when I jumpered the starter.
I have a new kick start on order but I'm not sure when that will arrive (local shop). So, I'll have to rely on the electric starter until I get that part.
Obviously my plunger and wire are bad so they will need replaced no matter what. Maybe I'll pull that wire from the brake assembly and twist the two poles together. I realize that will make the brake light on constantly when the key is on, but that may light up the spark circuit.
Thanks for the info and I'll work on tracking that down.
KJ
#16
If you can get it to turn over but no spark, I have had the oil tank switch fail. All I had to do to fix the problem I had was disconnect the oil tank switch and fired right up. I was going to switch it to premix anyway.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#17
Seeing as you have all the diagrams, could you show me where to find the spark plug, airfilter, fuel filter, and maybe shed some light on how to maintain these? I wish to go pike fishing in two weeks and need my machine running back to 35 instead of the choked off 7 its getting now idk why but the fuel filter was incredibly dirty.
#18
Seeing as you have all the diagrams, could you show me where to find the spark plug, airfilter, fuel filter, and maybe shed some light on how to maintain these? I wish to go pike fishing in two weeks and need my machine running back to 35 instead of the choked off 7 its getting now idk why but the fuel filter was incredibly dirty.
#19
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: old polaris tech
Brake lever has to be held in to allow starter to operate(small switch that goes into lever assy) also can bypass safety switch with tether by tying wires together to see if helps(they do go bad ) starter switch on bottom of left control assy. If NO TAILLIGHT when brake lever pressed AND bulb is good,then starter interlock switch(small switch in lever assy) could be bad,not making contact.Last thing check 12 volts directly to starter to see if good. Hope this helps</end quote></div>
Fantastic info. Thank you very much.
Is it the front or rear brake lever that must be held to engage the starter? Also, does the brake lever need to be engaged even when using the kick start?
So then does that mean the red switch is a run/kill switch?
I haven't checked the tail light bulb but I will do that as I'm troubleshooting this.
Are any of the switches in the lever assembly replaceable or would I have to replace the entire assembly if any of them are bad?
Weedy,
I can't check compression because I'm not yet able to get the starter to engage AND the kick start is stripped. I need to purchase a new kick start arm and install that before I can even begin to think about checking the compression.
Thank you so much. I'll work with it tonight and report back my results.
KJ
Brake lever has to be held in to allow starter to operate(small switch that goes into lever assy) also can bypass safety switch with tether by tying wires together to see if helps(they do go bad ) starter switch on bottom of left control assy. If NO TAILLIGHT when brake lever pressed AND bulb is good,then starter interlock switch(small switch in lever assy) could be bad,not making contact.Last thing check 12 volts directly to starter to see if good. Hope this helps</end quote></div>
Fantastic info. Thank you very much.
Is it the front or rear brake lever that must be held to engage the starter? Also, does the brake lever need to be engaged even when using the kick start?
So then does that mean the red switch is a run/kill switch?
I haven't checked the tail light bulb but I will do that as I'm troubleshooting this.
Are any of the switches in the lever assembly replaceable or would I have to replace the entire assembly if any of them are bad?
Weedy,
I can't check compression because I'm not yet able to get the starter to engage AND the kick start is stripped. I need to purchase a new kick start arm and install that before I can even begin to think about checking the compression.
Thank you so much. I'll work with it tonight and report back my results.
KJ
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