How NOT to load your SP700 in the bed of a borrowed truck....
#11
#12
One thing I do (after coming close to busting my rear window) is stand a piece of plywood up so that the front-most part of the quad (winch, brush guard, plastic) is resting against it. It distributes the force over a wider area if the quad moves forward. Probably wouldn't have helped in this case though. I agree about the ramps. The rung style ramps seem to give the tires something to claw into better than wood or smooth ramps.
#13
#14
After my buddy blew out the back window of his Ford Ranger loading his Yamaha Warrior (same truck and quad for 10 years) I decided to be proactive.
I put a 2x6 across the bed, with 2 other pieces mounted along the bed as braces/spacers directly in front of the quad wheels. I screwed them together with deck screws, and used a couple of metal brackets and sheetmetal screws to hold it to the back of the bed. So far no problems with my quad with crash bars and a winch mounted on the front.
Spacing of the braces turned out to be a perfect fit for gas cans too.
I put a 2x6 across the bed, with 2 other pieces mounted along the bed as braces/spacers directly in front of the quad wheels. I screwed them together with deck screws, and used a couple of metal brackets and sheetmetal screws to hold it to the back of the bed. So far no problems with my quad with crash bars and a winch mounted on the front.
Spacing of the braces turned out to be a perfect fit for gas cans too.
#17
#18
Been there and DONE that!
Wife took out the rear window loading her SP450 a few years ago. Problem was we were using those cheap tri-fold ramps. Pitch is too steep, we learned from this and went out and bought (a bigger trailer, lol...lol) and new arched fold-up 14' wide and 120" length heavy duty ramps. Best thing we ever did!
Now I have a small KOBALT tool box to act as a stop for loading into the rear bed. But IF and WHEN I do transport with the truck it has to be with the tail gate down (No biggie though).
TIP: Make sure when you have the rear window replaced that the auto glass company KNOWS for sure if you have rear defrost. The company we had do, incompetent as ALL GET OUT! they replaced it with a Non-defrost window. I have procastinated to get it re-replaced and well 2 years later, lol..lol
Cheers,
R'
Wife took out the rear window loading her SP450 a few years ago. Problem was we were using those cheap tri-fold ramps. Pitch is too steep, we learned from this and went out and bought (a bigger trailer, lol...lol) and new arched fold-up 14' wide and 120" length heavy duty ramps. Best thing we ever did!
Now I have a small KOBALT tool box to act as a stop for loading into the rear bed. But IF and WHEN I do transport with the truck it has to be with the tail gate down (No biggie though).
TIP: Make sure when you have the rear window replaced that the auto glass company KNOWS for sure if you have rear defrost. The company we had do, incompetent as ALL GET OUT! they replaced it with a Non-defrost window. I have procastinated to get it re-replaced and well 2 years later, lol..lol
Cheers,
R'
#19
TIP: Make sure when you have the rear window replaced that the auto glass company KNOWS for sure if you have rear defrost. The company we had do, incompetent as ALL GET OUT! they replaced it with a Non-defrost window. I have procastinated to get it re-replaced and well 2 years later, lol..lol
Cheers,
R'
Cheers,
R'
#20
Them narrow beds of rangers do suck when you hafta gas it to get over one then nail the brakes an instant later. I haven't broken any windows, but by using 2x6 planks I've spun and shot one out, dropping my old Q-zilla onto the tailgate and snapped a support cable, and bowed the tailgate.
The first time I did that I had a Tblazer 250 come down on top of me after a plank spit out.....oops....
The first time I did that I had a Tblazer 250 come down on top of me after a plank spit out.....oops....