what stumped me was why when i put the test light on the grey/wh wires to the hub coils, the tester would light up, and it also lit up when i put tester on brown/wh wires. i dont understand why the brown/wh "ground" wires had juice going through them?

 

Yes, the problem came from running the engine with the battery disconnected, it burned out the LR 83 limiter mondule its located behind the oil tank. I bought a new one through cheap cycle parts.com for 85.29 i installed it and its worked perfectly ever since

 

These wires are so thin that it's possible that the insulation is not sufficient to keep voltage from arcing/jumping to the brown(ground wires) Here's the explanation of an induction coil and how it prevents this from happening: To prevent the high voltages generated in the coil from breaking down the thin insulation and arcing between the secondary wires, the secondary coil uses special construction so as to avoid having wires carrying large voltage differences lying next to each other". In other words the wiring and insulation on Polaris coils are way too thin especially on the brown wires! If the wiring and insulation were thicker on the awd coils it wouldn't have problems with grounding issues. What you're doing by grouping these small wires to a better/larger common ground is to remove any current from them so the system can operate properly.

 

That can cause problems also when a battery is dead or removed and current from the regulator/rectifier has to go somewhere. It usually hits the areas of least resistance first which usually is the bulbs then can burnout modules.