My 400L was running great the other day before I had belt drive issues that I thought were electrical. I adjusted the throttle cable at the throttle box to gain space at the terminals like I was told it was supposed to have. This was the only thing I did to the fuel system. Now it is really bogging out badly. I have put the cable back to where it was before the belt problem this did nothing for the problem.
It starts up and ideals fine but when you rev it up it boggs out. If you let off and punch it sometimes it will regain power. When riding it same thing happens it will bogg out and slow way down if you let off and then punch it it will run fine for a few seconds.
I took the carb apart this afternoon and it was not too dirty for being a 94, I took out the jets sprayed everything clean. I looked up in the intake the reeds looked to be fine so I did not take them out. I replaced the plug with a NGK that was gaped right, drained the tank and replaced the gas with fresh no ethanal gas. checked the filter from the gas tank. Still runs like crap! No change in it at all. Any ideas I do not have any experience with reed problems. Does this sound like maybe the issue? Do they just go bad one day? Or any other things I maybe overlooking. The jets and needle and everything still looked good.
Other issue is I put a new bulb in my 4x4 switch and it still does not engage, I am pretty certain it is the gear shifter switch. The other day I was checking things over tring to find the other problem and I noticed that someone had been in there before. I found that some bulbs were burn out on the dash, when i switched them around to check the switch, I found the thing reading in neutral all the time. The green light would stay on in forward or reverse and the reverse light would never come on. All I would like to do is bypass this switch if possible.
This is going to be a great quad if I can just get rid of some of the stupid little issues it has.

 

Also I shoved a piece of rubber under the carb to keep it from vibrating so bad.

 

Reeds aren't usually a problem,but easy to check out! If you don't install the rubber dampener kit it will still bog down until the carb can load back up on fuel!Bad on dumping fuel from vibration! Plus did you take the float needle out and see if the needle valve was worn. This also was a bad problem on the 400's even with the dampener kit installed. Sounds like the switch in the shift box.Also the switch was updated to a newer style about mid year or so!
Also sound like someone may have swapped the indicator wires around or it could be just the gear box switch causing all the problems!. The schematic in the manual should clear this up for you as to the colors. It's been too long can't remember em! I'll see if I can trace em down. PS one thing you can try is to tie the red wire from the shift box switch into the grey wire and see if you have awd! OPT

 

I did not take the needle completely out I just unscrewed it from the carb body and looked it over. I will tear it all the way down next time.
I was hoping that the piece of high density foam I had under the carb would take the place of the damper until I could rule out other problems.
How about raising or lowering the needle? The choke on or off really does not affect the problem.
Sounds like I might just be in for a carb overhaul.
As for the 4x4, looking at the owners manual wiring chart, R/W is in, Gry/W is foward and goes to AWD switch and to reverse over ride, and purple is reverse and it also goes to over ride. I was hoping to tie some of them together and bypass the gear switch. I know the dash lights would not work but I do not care about that as much as 4x4.
You said tie the R/W to Gry/W, I guess since it goes to the over ride switch I will have 4x4 in reverse? Or do I need to tie it to purple and gray/white?
I looks as doing any of these ways will not send power to the coils all the time because the switch is before the coils. That was my main worry about modifing the wiring.

 

The gearbox switch is about $100 and might just be the easiest way rather than trying to bypass it and making a mess of the wiring! Slide needle usually not a problem,just the needle valve and also if you have a 200 or 210 main jet drop it down to a 190!(if you're between sea level and 2000 feet)I had to do almost every one we sold because they were on the rich side down here along with installing a bunch of the carb dampener kits! OPT

 

All is good, I do not really know what fixed the problem, but it runs great no bogging out. I returned the throttle switch to the way it was when I got it. Next I checked the choke and last I pulled the needle out and looked it over again. Took it out and it ran great!
4x4 fixed by putting R/W wire to Gry/W wire before gear switch, it works great!
Headlights are burnt out, previous owner must have ran it with a bad battery, going to fix them next, no big deal.
OPT thanks for all the help!!