So I have the above issue that started about a month ago. It misses and cuts out and just doesn't have any smoothness at all. If I push in the override button it runs 90% better though it still misses a little especially if I open up the throttle. I looked at the etc and can't tell if it's too loose or not. Tomorrow I'll trace down the black wire on the Cdi and unplug it as I think I understand that will disable the limiter function of the etc. any other thoughts? It's my first post so if there's a protocol violation sorry.

Billy

 

Welcome to the forum! Pop the front panel and pull the black wire from the reverse limiter. This defeats the limiter,will have full power in reverse and you won't have to push the over ride button in reverse. It's designed to limit rpm in reverse unless you push the over ride,but the limiters are bad about shorting out and screwing up in forward also. On the older models have the thumb throttle lever a bit snug,not as much slack(1/16-1/8") as the newer models. You can pull the throttle cap and adjust to where the contacts aren't touching. See if this helps. The black wire from the cdi goes to the ignition kill circuit.Try this if pulling the black limiter wire doesn't help. It it runs better with the cdi wire pulled,then could be kill circuit in the cdi shorting out internally or a short in the left emergency cut off switch. OPT

 

So are you saying that if pulling the black wire improves the problem I should hook the black wire back up and tighten up slack in the cable. It seems if I understand your reply that if the black wire pull fixes it then either the cable is loose or the switch is bad?

Thanks

Billy

 

Leave the black wire from the reverse limiter off! Even if it's not the problem they all eventually fail. This way you don't have to keep pushing the over ride button while in reverse, plus you will have full power in reverse so be careful.Just a bad idea from Polaris(their intentions were for safety reasons) to limit rpm in reverse unless you needed full power. Very few other brand atv's had a reverse limiter (unless I haven't been keeping up lately) OPT

 

OPT

I unplugged the black wire and it did indeed make it run much much better. It did create another problem though. I can't turn off the machine with the key, do I use the slide kill switch now?



Billy

 

Are you sure you pulled the rev limiter wire and not the cdi black kill switch wire? If the cdi wire is still hooked up,but you're not able to kill it with the key,then could be the cdi internal kill circuit may be shorted or a problem in the left on and off emergency control switch. I've had bad cdi's before and a lot of owners just opted to use the on off emergency switch to kill em rather than replacing a cdi! OPT

 

OPT,

I thought I did but just now went out and started one at a time pulling black wires and replacing them. Last one must be reverse limiter because it fixed the miss and the machine will die when key is turned off so the problem is solved. But I'm still confused, does this imply the ect switch is bad or the cable is loose or neither?

Billy

 

Being able to turn the ignition switch off is controlled by the black wire from the cdi. It's just possible you didn't have a good connection contact to begin with on the black terminals. If the machine doesn't die now at an idle or in reverse, runs ok too,then the etc switch adjustment on the throttle cable should be ok. OPT