#26 seal (3084581) is the crank case seal behind the front clutch. #17 (3082162) is the crank case seal behind the stator and flywheel,the side where you found the gas accumulation.Two of the cheapest places online to buy parts. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse and Polaris OEM Parts - Cheap Cycle Parts Just compare prices. OPT

 

Thanks I was thinkn it was 26 and 17 jus wanted to be sure.

 

i rebuilt my carb today and the only thing i didnt replace was the long needle connected to throotle and its running better and not leaking gas out the overflow tube so im happy, i tightened the idle screw half a turn and now it idles without dieing.

now before i rode after rebuilding card i drained the recoil area and man there was alot of dirty black gas in there again so im going ride for while and take out the drain plug and see if more gas accumaleted again and that will for sure tell me if crank seals need replaced im wondering if gas was in the recoil area cause of flooding the carb? Also should there be any fluid in the recoil area or is that left dry? when i replaced the gasket it was all gas in the recoil area so im not sure if some kind of lube is used in there?

 

If you're talking about the air/fuel screw,it should be between 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. Gas got past the crank seal probably from sitting too long with the needle and seat worn and with the fuel valve on! The recoil area should be dry after you clean everything up and should stay dry. OPT

 

its the long needle about 2 inchs long that i didnt replace it hooks to a spring and cap and screws on top of carb and is conected to the throttle cable, i always turn the gas valve off but i dont know if the previous owner did, i also didnt mess with air/fuel screw its been untouched by me, today i didnt replace the big idle screw but i did turn it half a turn and now its idleing without dieing on me but it seems the vibration is making the screw loosing its self

 

It's ok if you didn't replace the slide needle,but not that hard to replace. You can remove the idle screw and slightly stretch the spring a little and the idle might stay adjusted "IF" that's what's causing the idle change and NOT the crank seals sucking air! Just run it a while and see how it does.OPT

 

ok i jus replaced the long needle thing and the rubber ring and put in the new idle screw and spring and its firing up i jus drianed the recoil area of gas so ill run it for awhile and see how it does....do you thing i should go ahead and replace the crank seals?

 

jus rode for 10 minutes and pulled plug on recoil area and no gas at all, but im still thinkn i should replace crank seals jus to be safe cause there probably still factory orignal seals what do you think i should do? the carb kit seemed to work im happy i was able to do it all myself lol

 

If it's running ok,no bogging or hesitation,idles good,then drive it. If you just want to replace em you have to pull the flywheel and stator, and have a clutch puller for the front drive clutch. I've seen this before to where gas gets by the seals after sitting up,but after carb rebuilds and all the gas is out,they run ok. If seals are very bad or leaking it will be hard to crank,wont crank,idles erratic,no power,etc. The seals could have temporarily swelled from the excess gas in the crank and after running,the heat can make them conform back to seal properly. This is up to you if you want to change em out. Just make it a habit to turn the fuel valve off after riding. OPT

 

ok cool thanks im already in the habit of turning the gas valve off but accidents happen thanks for your help and your fast response ill just ride and take out the plug on recoil area and watch for gas in it until i feel its fine also should i lube the gear and starter gear im still wondering if there should be fluid in their or is the plug for draining just for if water gets in the recoil area?