If he was spraying starter fluid in the seal area and it cranked the seal is bad! Don't sound like he was too bright?? There is a 10mm crank case drain screw you can drain if you wish. Right at the bottom of the crank case. If the seal is seeping,this could be part of the problem,BUT the top end must be right along with the carb,etc for the engine to run right.

 

You are not going to believe this.. but while waiting for parts I took off the clutch cover getting it ready. I also pulled the fly wheel and in the process messed up the coil so I bolted it back together to make sure I had spark. I arched from the plug to the spark plug cable and the quad fired up and ran. I put the spark plug cable back on it drove it around for a few min. When I put the clutch cover back on I noticed it pulls the back plate out a little ( it seems warped ) and it won't run. Took the cover back off and it fires right up... What the heck!! Ideas?

Anyway, still waiting on parts to see if I can get this to run with everything bolted back in place.

 

Did you have a good spark to begin with?? If not you may have accidentally cleaned up the inside of the flywheel to allow the igniter coil to spark when you removed it. Common problem on the older clutch covers and backing plates to warp(mainly the covers) Check the front motor mount also to make sure it hasn't separated causing the engine to move. If the covers' warped and touching the front clutch,you can find a later model cover that's stiffer.(Plenty of used newer models on Ebay) There's a small "L" bracket also at the bottom of the backing plate that can be moved a little also.Check the engine to clutch seal for any damage(the #5410749 you mentioned). Replace the crank seals anyway since you have em coming! That way you won't have to worry about em. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1996&fveh=5418

 

I had spark prior but I did take out the coil since I damaged it. I just wire nutted off the ends for now waiting for a new one to show up. The only real thing that changed was taking the clutch cover off. Do you happen to know a model that is stiffer that I can replace it with? I am going to check ebay and see if I can find one that has multiple models it works for.

 

Even the newer style covers will work. You just might have a hole not used.Polaris ATV New Outer Clutch Cover Case Housing Sportsman Trail Boss Ranger | eBay

 

If you did get the "oversize cover" you'd have to modify the air duct sleeve to fit your exhaust tube,OR just get a later model(99 or so) standard cover that is still stronger and would fit your air outlet.

 

The Saga continues..



New seals, new rings, carb kit, 115lbs compression andstarts and runs by just tapping the starter.

The problem now seems to be some noise inside the motor. Itsounds like metal hitting metal but randomly. Its not like it’s a valve or thepiston hitting anything. When I rev it up it sounds ok but as it starts to winddown you can hear a clunking sound. I took the head off again to make sure thewrist pins were in properly and they are. I greased the bearing and put it backtogether and it made the same sound. Uponinspection I noticed the rod felt smooth on that crank but I did notice about1/16 inch play left and right which is what I suspect is causing the problem.

The other thing I am wondering if it could be is that theguy who did the bore work bored it too big or maybe I need a different sided cylinder.It’s the original with new rings. Any ideas?

 

Another update. I took the jug to a different machine shop. It took the guy about 30 seconds to tell me that the guy who did the work overbored it and that he is going to have to measure it and see if anything will work. If not he is going to redo it with a matching piston. He checked the rod and said it looks like its not stretched so I am lucky or I would be out another couple hundred bucks. All in all I think I am getting close. He then praised the fact that I put new seals in it.. lol. Thanks OPT.
Oh, and that I should be at 140lbs of compression once he is done. They are a race shop but I don't know if he is doing anything special.

 

Sounds like you finally have someone that knows what they are doing!! Yes,140 psi is what you should have (or close to) if it's bored right and have good crank seals! You have to be careful on who you use.A lot of people out there claim to know what their doing,but don't! 115 psi was never right after the first guy finished with it! Plus side to side play on a rod is acceptable,up and down play isn't!