My FIL gave me his old 98 Xplorer. When I got it it did not run, but with alot of work I have gotten it running but not very well, or not in my opinion. Fist thing I noticed is the electric start did not work,I found the power wire broken at the starter, new terminal fixed that. I took the carb off, it was gumed up bad, I disassembled it, soaked everything, blew out all ports and jets with an air compressor. Replaced plug with new, I also think the oil pump is bad so I just premix. I get it to crank (not easily BTW) and can run it. The problem is when I try to gas it it wants to choke out, I have to slowly accelerate. So this is the first problem, the second I think is related also, I get the motor idled down to where it barley runs, but I think it is still to fast as I have a hard time getting the thing in any gear. The only way i get it in gear is to try and choke it out, smack the shifter in gear and gas it real quick. The third problem I have is if I use the 4X4, after words it is almost like the from right tire locks up and it tries to turn right, and you have to really fight it to drive in a straight line, then it digs up my yard, I have figured driving in reverse a little bit it seems to fix it for that occurance. The final thing I have discovered is the electric cooling fans is locked up, it seems the fan cost about $200, how important is this fan if all I do is putt around the yard to ride my 5yo for 20 minutes or so?

 

Sounds like you have multiple problems. Start with a compression test first,could be the cause of the bad running,hard to start,idle problem. Low compression and leaking crank seals could cause this. Also the awd could simply need a fluid change,but if it doesn't help,you need to get into the hubs and check for worn parts. The armature plates were bad on magnetizing causing hubs to lock in and turn sharply even if in two wheel drive. My on the fan is that you can live with out it. There are many air cooled atvs out there with out fans! Plus the stupid fan sensor is located on the rear engine mount and not on the engine itself. All they do is eventually break or short out causing the fan to run constantly. Plus it took a lot of heat for the fan to ever kick on. Just like the oil cooled,fan assisted 325 and 330 Trail Boss,Magnums that hardly ever had fans come on unless super hot.

 

I will try and test compression tonight, what do i want it to be? How hard are the cranck seals to change, i am assuming i can just pull the clutch and flywheel to access, or do i need to crack it open. I'm grateful my father in law gave me this thing, but it is definitely a piece, it has sat for years and had about 2 inches of that good ol ga red clay caked in every space of the motor and frame.

 

Compression needs to be at least 120 psi,preferably more! If lower then you need to address the top end problem. You have to have good top end compression and the seals must hold the gas/oil mixture under pressure to be able to run properly.
You need to have front clutch puller to get to one seal and a flywheel puller,then remove the stator plate to get to the other one. You can get a loaner harmonic balancer puller from most auto to stores for the flywheel. The puller you can buy on Ebay,plus some have made them from 3/4" fine thread bolts from hardware stores. Here's a link to a pdf service manual that can help you on any repairs.Index of /ORV Manuals/Polaris/1996-1998 - All Models

 

Thanks for everything so far. I am working alot this week, but I got several things to look at. I will update as I progress.

 

Well I don't have my compression gauge, I guess my brother has it, but I did pull the carb off and the rubber boot that mounts to the cylinder. looking into the cylinder I could see the piston and sleeve was scared up. So I guess, not much reason to do a compression test. I would assume it is safe to say this thing has never had the top end touched. What do you think the chances are I can just have it bored over a little?

 

Cylinders can be bored several times over.I'm not a big fan of doing a top end rebuild only especially on a 15 year old machine.It can just cost you more in the long run. When you tear the cylinder off make sure there is no up and down play on the connecting rod,if any play is found, a new rod kit has to be installed along with crank bearings and seals.

 

I did multiple compression test, they ran between 90-95 psi. Gonna be a while before I get to do anything, gotta get some money saved first. Thanks for all the help so far.I will check out bottom end also.

 

Keep us updated as to your progress..

 

Well here is an update, my FIL decided he wanted the ATV back for a hobby of his own. Just glad he decided this before I sunk a lot of money in it. Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.