Yep,he just cleaned the needle seat,didn't replace it which I would always do,plus didn't show a couple things,but just a basic video on carb cleaning. If you really want to get serious on a carb you you can strip all parts down and soak the carb body,jets etc in Chemtool carb B-9 carb dip like we used at the shop,then use a fast evaporating cleaner such as an electronic cleaner or brake cleaner and air.Berryman® Chem-Dip® Professional Parts Cleaner | Berryman Products

 

Here is an entire series, clean, assemble. the whole nine yards.


OPT, is there much a difference between the BST40, and BST34? My service manual only shows exploded views of the 40. It is an official Polaris manual too.

 

You have the BST34 on the 400. It's 34mm versus the larger 40 mm carb on the Sportsman 500s. Major difference in that both are constant velocity carbs that uses vacuum to lift the slides is the size of the carb,jetting and especially the float systems. In my opinion you have the best design carb because of the float system. Just like the one shown in the video.The BST 40 is more complicated. BST34.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
BST40.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Thanks OPT, Trying to figure out how to print thst out, only shows parts list when I hit print.

 

I have a 2000 Polaris xpedition 425. Recently while riding I hit a rock and now when I try to put the atv in gear it will not move. When in gear the prop shaft from the transmission to the rear housing moves but the 4 wheeler will not go anywhere. I removed the rear end as well as the rear housing and everything seems to be fine in both. When I put the 4 wheeler in 4wd the front right wheel turns but that is all do you have any suggestion on what this could be?

 

Sounds like you need to look into the hub on the front wheel that's not turning also.The main problem on the rear wheel drive is the prop shaft shaft coupler leading from the prop shaft to the rear differential is stripped out. Common problem on the Magnums and the Expedition that shared the same drive system. The coupler has a grease fitting that only can be accessed through a hole in the swing arm. Plus many people didn't even know it existed until it was too late and the threads were already stripped.It's a lot softer than the prop shaft end or the diff shaft end. Replaced a bunch of these couplers over the years. The swing arm has to be removed to replace it. Pain in the neck. Item #18 on the parts break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Thank you for replying hopefully that is the problem. Could this still be the problem even if the entire prop shift is spinning from where it goes into the transmission to the rear housing?

 

If it's just the prop shaft from the transmission turning and not the shaft in the rear diff itself,then the coupler is usually the problem. If the shaft from the rear diff is turning,then you may have bigger problems such as a really stripped out ring and pinion gear.That usually only happens if they're not maintained and dry or low on 80/90 lube. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

How much gear lube do I put in the rear housing? I split the housing and it is empty?

 

Check the teeth on the ring and pinion gear since it was dry. If worn down they need to be replaced as a set.Plus may need seals,especially since it's torn down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Use 80/90 GL5 gear oil,manual calls for 10 ounces,but I filled to the bottom of the fill threads.