I have been working on this older atv and on installation of bearings and torque of axle nut notice that the wheel does not spin freely as I would expect now I am questioning my install. Has anyone had this experience I know the front 4wd is mechanical and wonder if I did not install the hillard clutch properly or this is a typical feel on these are equipped with a wodrof type key that only allow to be installed in a certain way but there are 3 notches on the spindle section ? I like to think i'm not an idiot but this is my first atv rebuild and this has thrown for a loop?

don't want to mess it up.

thanks in advance to all

 

You're not an idiot on this one.. This spring plunger type roll cage was only used two years(87-88) along with the woodruff key on the cv shaft. Later models still had the woodruff key,but they went to the armature plates for engagement. Best I can remember on this old one the roll cage slides on then install the woodruff key to where its is flush with the face of the roll cage,then the front bearing. Hold the back of the cv behind the strut while you slip on the hub to keep the shaft from moving. The critical thing is hub nut torque. Polaris recommended not using the old nut and replacing with a flex nut,but most of the time I didn't.It has a "rolling" torque that is confusing at times. On these when reusing the nut,I usually ended up with 20 foot pounds using the rolling torque method and didn't have any problems on the awd not working.Just torque at that then stake the nut into the key way slot.You can test awd action by having all 4 wheel off the ground.Here's a breakdown on the parts,plus a link to an older pdf manual that may help also.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...e%20Manual.pdf

 

hey old polaris tech:
You always got an answer for me, I guess I was just wondering if it has to be put in at any certain degrees ? I had read somewhere that the woodruff key and clutch to be set at 12 o'clock when installed ,wasn't sure if that was the align procedure as the spindle has 3 nibs does this matter? I found a torque setting in the repair manual of 400nm which would be approx. 33-30ft/lbs so maybe I will loosen it a bit to more like the 20ft/lb area. I am an automotive tech but let me tell you a lot of differences such low torque values, 4 bearings in a front wheel and yes I agree with you maybe I have changed a handful of axle nuts over the years I trust the staking type never let me down. I figured if asked someone would have an answer or experienced this hillard clutch and alignment or installation before. So is it typical for there to be resistance in the front wheels when rotating? Like they say the stupid questions are the ones not asked.

thanks again jamie

 

I tried to have the key at 12'oclock position,turn the axle if need be to align the nibs in the strut with the roll cage plungers,best that I can remember on this old mechanical only awd system. Newer models with the armature plates were electro/mechanical and actually easier to work with. Should be a little resistance but hub shouldn't have any in and out play.Try it at what your manual says on the torque(33 foot pounds) if too tight,back off and then try 20 pounds.With all wheels off the ground and running you can tell real quick if the awd works ok or not. Hard to remember everything on this old 26 year old machine as I almost forgot about the old 87-88 mechanical hubs to begin with..

 

Finally got a chance to get the atv out this weekend....... started up great (put new piston and rings and rebuilt carb )took out the son , then the daughter approx. 45mins-1hr total got it back and noticed that the rf cap for the hub loose (I had replaced bearings and orings all 4 on either side & seals ) now my question is when I touch the hubs on either side seemed warm rf may been a little warmer so when I got home to take a look noticed wheel was a little stiff but turned, upon further inspection found that when I remove the brake caliper assy the wheel frees up nicely !! Any ideas?

 

Sounds like you might have a caliper piston sticking. Can cause dragging,overheating.Piston and seal kits are still available. Item#3.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

hey old polaris tech:
yeah I thought maybe a caliper as well so I compressed the caliper and reinstalled it still tighter than it should be I think , I also checked the bolts were not to long to rub.
Quick question for you as I noticed the Rf caliper has some sort of fibre material to the piston on the caliper and the Lf does not ? Possibly suspect the lf caliper has been rebuilt by previous owner could the fibre be causing the issue. It looks like a car clutch disc material

thanks again old polaris tech for the help
Jamie

 

They had these old ceramic isolators as they called em for few years in the caliper pistons and then quit after the 99 models. Still show em on piston/seals kits up until then,but the major problem I found with them when I ordered kits was that almost every one was too large to fit in the piston when they came in. I even tried to dremel the diameter down a bit and fit them in the piston,but ended up cracking most of them and chunking them. Your model shows them. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Not offered on 2000 models and up and good riddance I say. Brake pads were the same over the years. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Nothing stopping you from popping it out and seeing if it helps. If the piston is sticking just order the o-rings and piston if scored up and needed and leave this part off..

 

hey old polaris tech ,
Thanks for all your help with the atv, I figured the problem had to shim both brake brackets found the outboard pad to tight to rotors a thin washer from the shop easy solution. Finally took our the atv out for the first real test on the weekend 6 hrs in the bush through rivers and rocks , had the rear chain fall off a few times thought it had enough tension but think it is too far gone thank god for a winch and tie strap.
Shattered the lf outer cv shaft and cage, and found out a wet belt sure does slip a lot when there is a 30 - 40 ft hill on the other side! All in all had a blast just wanted to say thanks for all the help.
Jamie

 

Like they say- What doesn't kill you just makes you stronger,but looking back I really don't know if all that's true or not. Enjoy it while you can.