So I thought a update was in order. So today dug into her and i went to take her apart the right side front wheel drive and low and behold there was absolutely no fluid in there which i kinda suspected because when I took off the tire it was all oily back there.(behind the tire) so i got as far as taking the cap off and then I realized I had no way near the right size socket for the nut on the end of the front wheel. Do any of you guys happen to know what size socket is needed for that nut. well needless to say i put her all back together and fill her up to the proper level and tomorrow i will give it a try and see if that helped at all.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

Lawdy... I remember the axle thread size is 7/8,think it's either a 1" or 1 1/8" socket I used. Too long to remember.It's a flexloc nut that's supposed to be tightened to a specific setting after repairs are made.If you look at the manual it shows a "rolling torque".
You start off torquing the flexloc nut to 400 inch pounds,then back off 1/2 turn. Then torque again and "read" the torque applied that starts moving the flex nut. Usually between 75-400 inch pounds. Add this reading to 100 inch pounds(bearing preload) So then say if you show 150 inch pounds(average reading) when the nut moves,then add 150 to the 100 bearing preload torque. 250 inch pounds total or a tad over 20 foot pounds. With a used nut you may get a different reading,but after all the ones I did,20 pounds was the average final torque. Confused? Yes this was a funky system and didn't last too long before the castle nut,cotter pin, and 12 pounds of torque showed up! Sounds like you're gonna need at least the armature plate(hopefully the hub seal sleeve for the coil or inner pole of the strut itself isn't damaged) plus the hub seal and possibly the strut seal if it's wet on the back side of the strut also.At least I would replace both seals,because it ain't worth having to go back in a second time if it leaks..

 

yeah i agree 100% OPT as far as not wanting to tear in to her again , now are you sure its 1" or 1 1/8" because that seems to small.
RUBEN

 

Not sure.. All I remember is that the shaft threads are 7/8" so it's a pretty big nut. A cheap set of impact sockets in metric or standard or both is what every one needs in their tool box. Standard 1/2" set that goes from 7/16 to 1 1/4" sockets for 25 bucks.. 13 Pc 1/2 in. Drive SAE Impact Deep Wall Socket Set

 

yeah i did some research and its 1 1/8"
THANKS
RUBEN

 

well heres another update on/with my problem. well yesterday i took it out and it seems that my problem is not fixed (only the left front tire is working). however it is engaging the awd about 90-95% better then it was before. also I was wrong about the size of the nut it is 1 1/4".
RUBEN

 

Make sure you have power to the gray wire on that side. If you do,then sounds like time to tear it down and inspect the parts.

 

That's your seal #23 leaking. I changed mine about 4 years ago it was not a bad job the Clymer manual explained it very well and the seal is cheap.
When you put it pack together the correct ft/lb torque is important.

 

yeah no i'm fairly certain that seal is okay. im thinking it is the hub seal that went bad. i am also pretty sure that i have power to both sides. i didnt get to check the gray wires but i did check the gray/white wire coming from the awd switch and i had 12 volts coming from there.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

Check the 2 connectors under the front panel for power that go to each strut coil. You can either use a test light and stick the probe gently into the wire leading to the offending side or take a razor blade and gently slice the wire enough to get a meter probe to test voltage. As long as you have power to the coil,then tear the hub down.Just my two cents on this again,if the hub seal is leaking,the strut seal will probably start leaking a little later on as the awd fluid goes through the strut and helps lubricate the strut seal to keep it soft and supple same as the hub seal. Had too many people including myself have that happen to that just replaced the hub seal only. Replace both seals and you won't have to worry.. Cheap seal that just pops out of the strut and use a large socket to set a new one in place.The a- arm has to be dropped at the strut along with the tie rod removed from the strut,then you can pull the strut out far enough to wiggle the drive shaft out.Not that big of a deal since you will already have most of it torn down.