okay thanks OPT but it would seem as i have a bad coil as i only got an ohms reading from one of the coils the left one as the right one is the side i am having problems with. now is there some kind of video that shows how to replace the coil, and is it very hard to replace. another thing now when i checked the ohms i got infinite reading didnt get any kind of reading on my multi-m0eter is this normal? now remember that i havent had awd since about dec. so roughly 8-10 months with no to little front hub fluid. i mean there was some in there when i did tear into her.
THANKS AGAIN
RUBEN

 

A manual is still the best bet,but even it doesn't show everything involved.It's still worth the price of having one.http://visit.tradebit.com/visit.php/...75/264162958/9 As far as replacing the coil you have to order a new sleeve as well. The final adjustment of the sleeve to the inner pole of the strut is crucial! Either flush or no more than .001 gap between the two. The armature plate will have two wear rings on the back. One place where it touches the sleeve and the other is where it rides on the milled inner pole of the strut itself. If the inner pole is ground down or damaged in anyway you might as well get a new strut assembly.Check this out carefully. Here's a few pics and helpful tips courtesy of a member from Polaris Atv Forums who replaced his coil and sleeve. It's not hard,but is tedious and must be done right!AWD Hubstrut Hilliard Clutch Troubleshooting/Diagnoses - Polaris ATV Forum Note: The torque setting he notes is for the later models with the castle nut and cotter pin. Your flex nut should still torque at approx 20 foot pounds..

 

okay thanks OPT
RUBEN

 

New strut assemblies are getting ridiculous for these now,over $320 versus a little over $115 or so for the coil and sleeve and your labor on a rebuild. Keep us updated.

 

yeah i know i was thinking if it would even be worth it but for me is a YES because of the winters here in NW Ohio. hey OPT you never did answer me on whether it is normal not to get any resistance reading on the coil it just show as being infinite. im going to go outside a little later and after i finish my chores on my farm im going to check out and follow the wires to the hub coil and see if i see any breaks.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

See if this helps..

Continuity- Continuity means that current can flow. When an ohmmeter is placed across a CLOSED circuit it will read ohms this means that the circuit has continuity. Such as 25 ohms resistance reading that the coil is supposed to have.


*Closed-When the term closed is used in relation to an electrical circuit it means that current can flow or it has continuity.

*Open-When the term open is used in relation to an electrical circuit it means current cannot flow or no continuity and part needs to be replaced.

Infinity ohms-This is what an ohmmeter reads when placed on an OPEN circuit. On an analog meter infinity ohms is when the needle doesn’t move at all and on a digital meter infinity ohms is 1 .

 

okay yes that makes sense.
THANKS AGAIN
RUBEN

 

well OPT i thought an update is deserved. Well i got it all fixed for a tad over $50 not including the elbow grease/manual labor. i reused the sleeve seal off of the strut (i was extremely careful taking it off i actually used a 3/8" x 8" punch) and the coil was $46.99 and like $5 for the silicone. And all of this was done while the strut was still on the atv. I do have 2 questions first is what is the difference between 4170003 and 4170005 (2201313) because i bought the 4170003 and it worked just fine the only thing i can tell is the length of the cable but i got the 4170003 to reach just fine although i did route it differently. okay and 2nly how important is it that the sleeve seal and the strut actually be in the spec as far as distance goes, because i know for a fact it isnt all that even all the way around but i must have got it into specs because the armature plate pulled up against the coil nice and tight.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

As you've mentioned they keep changing part numbers on this to fit different machines,but coils are the same,just different length wiring. Spacing is important between the coil sleeve and inner strut casting.Should be flush or not have over .001 clearance between each other. If the sleeve is too far in or out the armature plate can just get only one good "wear ring" on its surface and may not get a good magnetic pull later on.Plus the plate can warp over time. If sleeve and casting are flush or close you will have two even wear rings at the back of the armature plate and a good magnetic pull.

 

Okay OPT thanks for all of the info. as far as the coil i'm about 95% sure it is sitting flush with the inner strut casting.
also for the part number thing boy was i happy i took a chance and bought the part number that i did we're talking about at least double what i paid for mine. also i know for a fact it is getting one hell of a good magnetic pull.
THANKS AGAIN
RUBEN