okay thanks opt we'll see if i decide to tear into the strut as well i will post back here to let u guys know what i end up doing as i will probably have to wait until the snow melts here so i can start yo use my little tractor to do my chores on my farm. as this will most likely be a 2-3 day project depending on how i feel whenever i do start it.
RUBEN

 

okay well i thought an update is due, i finally bought all of the parts i needed and tore into her today and it was all successful now heres where i got into a problem. i dont have a Torque Wrench so therefore im not sure whether or not i have the flex nut to tight because it doesnt seem to rotate as fast as the other wheel.or it could be my imagination or perception since i didnt actually have the tire on. maybe tomorrow i will ask my host dad to let me borrow his Torque Wrench, does any body know off hand what the lbs should be on the flex nut. oh also i never actually saw the strut seal just replaced the hub seal as it was pretty much junk although i did buy the strut seal 3610028.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
RUBEN

 

On these older models with the flex nut they had what's called a "rolling torque" which was a joke. Had to try to calculate the force needed by the inch pounds of torque it took to move the nut.. Everyone I tried to do this way ended up being around 20 foot pounds of torque on the flex nut.. Try that and make sure the hub doesn't have any outward play. Most of the time this torque setting is sufficient and the awd engages ok. You might want to jack the machine up after all is done and see if the front wheels engage ok.

 

okay thanks opt

 

okay well today i went ahead and finished her up but i ran into a problem. u see the thing is when i tightened her up to the 20 lbs it did the same thing as in this video now heres the thing that i dont understand the tighter that i tightened the flex nut the less it did it/ or the more pressure it took to stop the axle from actually turning well right now i have it tightened up all the way to 135lbs, i know one thing my atv does not have the propulsion that it used to whch im pretty sure it has to do with that nut being super tight also i hope it doesnt hurt anything. maybe one of you guys knows whats going on and can help me out.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

Loosen that flex nut up!! No reason in the world to crank one down that tight! Hopefully you haven't damaged the armature plate. Some will turn even with the awd off,but you should be able to stop the hub from turning with your hand. Try a lower setting such as 15 foot pounds,then 20 foot pounds and see if the awd engages.When engaged you shouldn't be able to stop it with your hand or foot. Doesn't matter if the hub turns when you kick the awd off as up in the air it doesn't have a load on it and it will turn. Plus put the tire back on and the hub may not turn as much with the awd off.

 

yeah no opt thats what im saying i can stop it with my hand what do you think it can be.and it is only one side that this is happening to. this is a better video explaining my issue
Ruben

 

Start at the basics. Check that the connectors under the front panel are plugged in. Make sure you have voltage to the gray wire with key on,in gear and awd button engaged. If you have voltage to the hub coil you can check that you have no breaks on the brown ground wire.You can also try to better ground the small brown wires like people have done on the later models by tying all hub ground wires to a better common ground as in this video. If awd still isn't working you may have a hub coil or coil sleeve problem on that wheel. The hub coil sleeve must be flush with the inner pole of the strut and if the sleeve or inner pole are damaged or ground down they can affect magnetic pull on the armature plate. With awd on and in gear the armature plate is pulled up against the sleeve and the hilliard is free to lock into the hub. You may have to tear back into the hub to check things out.

 

okay thanks OPT now is there any way to check the ohms on the actual coil to see if it is good. also i have found the hub coil but what is the sleeve coil. also if there is a video showing "With awd on and in gear the armature plate is pulled up against the sleeve and the hilliard is free to lock into the hub. " that would be great
THANKS AGAIN
RUBEN

 

Resistance on the gray and brown wires should be between 25-30 ohms. The "sleeve" is the metal ring that surrounds the coil. Item #13 in the breakdown. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse How the system works is that the tabs on the armature plate lock into the back of the hilliard(roller cage). They both turn together as the cv shaft turns. If awd is off and the rear tires slip,front shaft speeds up faster than the tire, the armature plate and hilliard still turn,but the hilliard doesn't engage. When voltage is applied in awd mode to the coil if the rear wheel slip,front shaft speeds up faster than the tire,the coil has a magnetic pull to the armature plate and creates a "drag" on it. This slows the plate and hilliard down.The hilliard bearings then ramp up against the inside of the hub locking the hub and drive shaft as a single unit. The drive shaft and tire will turn together until the rear tires regain traction.When this happens the drive shaft and tire travel at the same sped and the hilliard unlocks. Simple system,but all parts have to work together. Here's another video on the hub parts,but "easy" on the grease. Plain hub oil on the bearings is just as good rather than what the manual says. On ice the awd works the same as having the wheels off the ground,no load on the system and all 4 tires grab.