I let em idle until the fan kicked on,killed em and walked away and found something else to work on until the engine was cold or cool to the touch. Then I repeated this step once again. Helps to seat the rings properly.Then You can take it for a good ride and vary the throttle,no wide open throttle for an hour or so. We've all heard the old saying "break em in the way you're gonna be riding them" but I just couldn't do that. Saw some of our guys,even the owner get on a brand new Ktm and just scream. Gave me the shivers..

 

Well this project has been somewhat of a headache.. Polaris ordering the wrong rings the first time, another week to get the correct ones in,a delay on getting the valve seals, then after getting everything I find the ring gaps were not in spec due to our machinist, the owner decided this evening to just put it together which was his call, got the engine together and started it up about midnight,pump primed up, cooling system bled,all that's left is to put the plastic back on and floor boards. Everything was cleaned,cases,oil tank,fuel tank,carb,exhaust...had a lot of mud in it. Hopefully it won't smoke once it's rode. Anyway thanks for all the help!

 

Hopefully it will hold up awhile for the customer.If it doesn't at least he knows what needs to be done.

 

Well he rode it 5 hours today without issue but did mention the motor felt warmer than usual but the temp light never come on, we jacked the front up and let it run for about 10 minutes but I think it may still have a air pocket. Is the bolt at the water pump for bleeding air from the system? My 99 radiator is different where his filler neck is seperate...

 

Best to do as the service manual says on bleeding air pockets. Jack the machine up with the front tires off the ground,radiator cap off,squeeze the hoses if you want, and let the fan cycle on and off several times. The coolant level in the radiator will go down when the fan first kicks on,then will go even more as it warms up,expelling air.Top off the radiator as it goes down. All the twists,turns to get back to the filler neck is the problem on expelling air.Once the radiator level is stable,top it off if needed,replace the cap and fill the over flow bottle to the correct level. Shouldn't have any air bubble problems after that. Just takes a little patience to get all the air out.

 

Thanks OPT

 

BTW where is the switch located that operates the fan?,I know one is in the head.. It is wired by toggle switch at the moment. Thanks again

 

Should be at the top center of the radiator

 

Sensor on the head is just for the hot light. The fan sensor is located at the bottom right of the radiator. Item #21 on the break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse You can test it if the fan doesn't switch on by checking resistance on the two wire connector when at room temp.Heat the sensor up with a heat gun,hair dryer and the resistance reading should start dropping. It completes the ground path for the fan motor. Fan should have 12 volts to the hot wire at all times. Plus don't over look the fan circuit breaker in the sealed pouch. If it's corroded it can cause problems. Located under the front panel. Item #3.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If the radiator sensor is the problem you can get a Wells SW526 from Autozone,Napa,etc and just splice in your connector. Same for the circuit breaker. You can get it at any auto store for a few bucks.

 

Excellent info! Thanks for all the help