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farm use "beater"... 325 magnum, shifting advice

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Old 02-21-2016 | 05:37 PM
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Default farm use "beater"... 325 magnum, shifting advice

I have a 325 magnum Polaris, a 2000 model (around that date) which came with the troublesome shifter. I bought this machine really cheap, and the motor runs great, and actually is far less cold-natured than my 330 Magnum is.

I don't want to buy another shifter for this machine, it's just not worth the investment. But I do want to use the bike. Hence my question:

I want to disconnect the linkage from the shifter, and just use a wrench to put the bike in reverse. I had been using a crescent wrench to put the bike in reverse to back it out of the barn, then shift it back to forward high by moving the reverse paddle back to the rear position.

This worked fine, until the shifter box pretty much just locked up completely, and now the reverse paddle won't move the shaft. I actually stripped out the little actuator (I know I know)... here's a pic:

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I believe the forward position could be stuck between low and high range since the shifter box hung up.

The rear brake pedal presumably must be pressed to get the bike to shift. Does the transmission need an electronic signal from the rear brake before it will allow you to shift it? Nothing else is connected to the rear brake pedal except for the brake cylinder linkage, which is also pretty much inop. (the bike looks like it was rolled down a mountain side, body broken up, seat pretty much trashed, just rough all over)... but it runs great, it really does, and we need it on the farm...

So, I'm hoping for some advice on how I can shift the thing with a wrench between forward high range and of course reverse. Do you have to move it out of high range in order for the reverse to engage? The reverse shaft actually looks like you could put a 1/2" 12 point box-in wrench on it and move it. But I don't want to break anything. Any money I might spend on buying new parts for this thing is going to need to go toward a new ATV this spring. I'm just hoping to keep this beater going, if I can.

Laugh, impugn... okay. But when the dust settles, any useful advice would be appreciated.

Dan
 
  #2  
Old 02-21-2016 | 06:16 PM
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Order a new belcrank(the part in your hand) You can temporarily use vice grips but try not to mess up the splines on the tranny shaft. You've hydro locked the gear box which is a common thing as linkages wear. Once you have the linkages in their respective belcranks,have all the 10 mm rod end lock nuts loose at the linkage ends at the shift box. On some machines you may have to "pop" the shift lever to get it back into neutral from being locked.Turn the rod ends to where they drop straight into the shift box levers with no resistance. Tighten the two 10mm lock nutson the rod ends,install the other two 10mm nuts holding linkage ends to shift shafts. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse You should be able to shift ok then. People hydro lock these also by trying to go straight from forward to reverse.You have to go back to neutral,then push the lever to the right then up for low. There is no lock out plunger on this gear case that's spring mounted on the brake pedal like on some other models.Belcranks are items#12.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...00&fveh=285531
 
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Old 02-21-2016 | 06:35 PM
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okay! that's the word I was looking for.

since we were shifting with the wrench to get it into reverse, and leaving the other belcrank in the forward high position, I guess that's how we messed it up.

getting it un-hydro-locked... that's just a matter of adjusting the linkage correctly? does the high-low forward belcrank have to be in a center or "neutral" position before the reverse belcrank will engage?
 
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Old 02-21-2016 | 06:41 PM
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ALL linkages need to be removed from the shift box. Pop the lever with the palm of your hand if need be to get it into neutral. Have the belcranks on the gear case,linkages in them,then you turn the other linkage ends to where they drop straight into the shift box slide holes. Better this way than to trying to loosen all 4 lock nuts while linkages are attached to the shift box and trying to adjust free play by turning the linkage rods themselves.
OR it may make more sense to you this way. Shift box and gear case both in neutral. Belcranks in place and linkage ends installed and tightened.Two lock nuts on linkage ends loose,same on the shift box end. Hold the ball end at the at the shift box,then turn the linkage rod in or out to where the rod end is lined up directly over the slide holes and let it drop in. Same for the other linkage. Then tighten all 4 lock nuts,install the two nuts holding the rod ends at the shift box. Hope this doesn't confuse you even more..
 
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Old 02-21-2016 | 06:54 PM
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thanks for the help, I will give this a try later in the week, as I have some time off work. I was just assuming the shifter was bad, and I had looked around and they are 150 dollars for a good used one. But I'll see if I can get this one adjusted.

one last question... there are 2 belcranks (I think?)... the reverse one, and the forward/low/high one. I'm assuming that the reverse belcrank needs to be positioned to the rear (not in reverse), and the forward belcrank would need to be in the center of its movement, not fully forward or rearward, right? That would be neutral, and I can adjust the shift rods from that position to fit the shifter sockets with the shift lever in neutral. Does that sound correct?
 
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Old 02-21-2016 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Newberry

one last question... there are 2 belcranks (I think?)... the reverse one, and the forward/low/high one. I'm assuming that the reverse belcrank needs to be positioned to the rear (not in reverse), and the forward belcrank would need to be in the center of its movement, not fully forward or rearward, right? That would be neutral, and I can adjust the shift rods from that position to fit the shifter sockets with the shift lever in neutral. Does that sound correct?
Reverse,neutral,high are on the same linkage rod.Correct on having this belcrank centered(parallel with the gear case) Low is the second one. Can't remember if it needs to be forward or rearward,but you can tell which way on position when you can push the atv easily. Then you can concentrate on adjusting the linkage. Look at this break s=dwwn. Belive on this model it;s forward on low. On some models they turn the belcrank in,others out which can screw the brain up..http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...00&fveh=285531
 
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